The issue is that if you are using a 12V supply and you get a 24V LED it can only use half of it's rated lumens (if it even turns on, some LED's will not activate without a power supply that is within 3-4 volts). Bascially it will be dim as heck if it turns on at all.
Rule of thumb is you should always match your LED's Voltage to the Battery or transformer size. Everything should be the same Voltage (or have the same voltage range if you are using a transformer) There are nuances of course, but it gets a little detailed.
Hooking up a 3-6V LED will probalby burn out immediately when it is turned on or soon after. It is getting too much voltage for the diode to handle.

Great idea, that rock with a full color set of RGB's would be amazing. I really need to learn more about setting up and programing an Arduino. That really unlocks truly unlimited DIY possibilities. Put a microphone on the board and program it to pulse colors to music.

So how much information do you want on DIY-ing LED lights????? Do some searches on youtube, or check out some of the Electrical subreddits for more info, but here is a little (too much) info and some links.

Whatever you decide, please post pictures of your final product, that rock is beautiful.

There are a few different ways to go. I have used a number of products from Superbright LEDs website and they have quality parts and pieces. You can also take apart a headlamp like yours and just extend the wires to the diode (if you are comfortable with soldering), then mount all of that in a wood base.For a DIY base you are probably going to need to build a base that will hide the battery pack and LED diodes, and that crystal can sit on like your headlamp.

For parts and pieces there are thousands of options unfortunately.

There are kits like this wine-bottle fairy light system for $3 that are inexpensive and you wont feel bad if you damage the light or wires so they don't work anymore doing trial and error DIY-ing (vs taking a $50-$80 headlamp and modifying it for your first project). I have not used this specific product, but you can cut the doides off you don't want to use and solder the ends or tape it off, or just bury the unused diodes in the base. They shouldn't generate enough heat to cause a fire if they were stuffed in a wood base.

https://www.superbrightleds.com/wine-bottle-led-fairy-lights-cork-shaped-battery-operated-led-lights-w-silver-wire-6-5ft

For a plug and play, no wiring or soldering exp needed option, I have used this single diode LED and it is awesome. Complete kit from Amazon for $18

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07QBZ3DHX/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1

It's possible you can get a battery pack from the link below and hook to this light and controller and have a remote for it (that might be cool). The battery pack generates 12V with 8 AA batteries, and this light and controller work off from a 12v system.

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You can also buy the parts and pieces it will probably take 3-4 pieces to put together

1. Like an 8 cell AA battery packs, or a 4 cell D pack that is already wired with a plug in connection for $2-$4. These generate 12V. So look for a 12V LED light. Do not bother with 24V systems if you use these

https://www.superbrightleds.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=battery%20powered

2. Then you need the LED. There are tons to choose from. First look for LED's that work with the battery pack so you are limited to 12V systems. and LED that is between 9V-14V will workTo get the output that your headlamp has you need to choose the color (tempurature) and lumen output. Your headlamp is probably a 300 lumen Diode and it looks like it is in the Cool range of 5500-6500k range for color/temperature. 4000k is more like natural light and 2500-3000k is a warm brownish light (probably not what you want to highlight that rock, but maybe it is. 5500 can be a harsh color for a desk light.)

https://www.superbrightleds.com/more-led-lights-and-fixtures/component-leds/led-wired-bolts

this is another very bright LED that would workhttps://www.superbrightleds.com/more-led-lights-and-fixtures/component-leds/led-wired-bolts/bolt-beam-10mm-led-light-10b-x

3. Last you need to connect the light to the battery pack and have an on off switch.This is a fun remote on off switch from amazon that is plug and play to the battery packhttps://www.amazon.com/Control-Wireless-Controller-Brightness-Flashing/dp/B0BTXCY5Q4/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=9OP6DQQZGRLO&keywords=12v+LED+switch&qid=1678990689&s=hi&sprefix=12v+led+switch%2Ctools%2C148&sr=1-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyT0YxSDRPVktOWjNZJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNTgzOTA2Mk02UFZTQTVaNURJMiZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwMzAxMzY2MzkyS1FFWEc5M0kyVyZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=

4. Last you need to wire an end on the LED to plug in. there are barrel connectors that you don't even need to know how to solder, just a screwdriver.https://www.superbrightleds.com/cps-f2st-female-standard-barrel-connector-to-screw-terminal-adapter-cps-x2st

I agree. I have only ever insulated hot water lines when they enter an unconditioned/vented, or uninsulated crawlspace.

That being said, there is no reason you cannot insulate from the tank to the wall. Just not sure what benefit it has.

Maybe if it was new construction and you are insulating to get a zero offset heat waste for being as "green" as possible you could insulate 100% of your hot water lines, but at that point you are probably insulating all the interior walls because you already drank the Kool-Aid™ of "perfectly" insulated and sealed home construction.

Yea 99% of the new tanks out there do not need any additional insulation on the tank. All of the energy efficiency requirements that have to meet put them in a much different category than even a tank that is 10 years old. It's the pre-2000 tanks that have been well maintained and are still working that can benefit from a tank wrap.

Redgard is a fluid applied waterproofing and crack proofing membrane that is typically used to seal shower floors and walls where you have installed either cement board or tile backer board. It can also be applied to brick/CMU/plywood. I have never tried to use it on greenboard and don't know if it is warrantied for that application, or how paint would then bond in a ceiling application.

In a nutshell it is a roll-on plastic liner you can put mortar over and then tile. I have also used it on a plywood subfloor, under a LVT in a laundry room to guarantee any leaks/spills/overflows would not get to the joists and subfloor.

Pre-Catalyzed epoxy is a one-part pre-mixed epoxy paint. Most waterproof epoxies are 2-part kits that you have to mix together then apply (messy and a PIA to deal with). to form a hard waterproof coating. Pre-Cat comes premixed and ready to use like standard paints or shellacs, but it forms a harder wear surface and is more durable at sealing, especially on GWB/greenboard. Plus, it can be tinted to color match anything. Even the big box store like Home Depot carry it and mix it. If it is an oil-based system (there are water based as well) and it is difficult to paint over down the road. I guess that is a pro and con. it's hard-to-get other paint to stick to it. It does an amazing job of waterproofing drywall/GWB/greenboard.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/BEHR-PRO-1-gal-White-HP-Pre-Catalyzed-Waterborne-Epoxy-Semi-Gloss-Interior-Exterior-Paint-HP15001/301899214

Yes, to greenboard and vapor barrier on the ceiling install. Steam and warm wet air rise and will condensate on the ceiling even with a well-insulated space above.

I go a step further and install a Pre-Catalyzed Epoxy paint on any bathroom/shower that I am doing so that even the taping mud is sealed and mold proof. Might be a waste since the stuff is $50-65 gallon, but it is insurance in my mind.

If you can see the pipe, you can insulate it. there are no setbacks or gaps you need to worry about. You can even go so far as wrapping the entire water heater with an insulation blanket and sealing your pipe insulation to the tank wrap.

https://www.amazon.com/Insulation-FIBERGLASS-Certified-Satisfaction-Guaranteed/dp/B0041871AY

Tank wraps are more for older, less efficient tanks, or if they are in unconditioned spaces.

If I understand correctly, you have a combination wall switch that controls the light separately from the fan instead of 2 separate switches (one for the light and one for the fan). If this is the case, you can install wire nuts on the second set of black and white wires and leave them in the electrical box where you are installing the new light.

You probably should go the added step and disconnect the second set of wires at the switch as well, and put a wire nut on this end too. It is for added safety in the off chance someone flips the "fan" switch on and leaves it on. It would at least not have power running through the wire to nothing.

Most people don't bother with wire nutting the abandoned wires at both ends, but it is the right thing to do and a good practice to be in. You dont have to remove the extra wires for any reason.

Part of a 100% full encapsulation is you have to install a dehumidifier and pipe the drain line out of the crawlspace. (9 times out of 10 it is aways put in the most inconvenient part of the crawlspace to maximize the draw. Rarely do you ever get lucky enough that it is next to the crawl space access for ease of maintenance). It also depends on how well sealed your floor is to the living space. There are always holes the pathways for air to move unless you have gone over the top with sealing above the subfloor.

If you are worried about humidity building up in a vented crawlspace, you can opt for adding Crawlspace Fan with a Humidistat to the louver locations. Just don't have all of the fans pointing into the crawl space. Either all exhaust the space or you split it 50-50 for intake and exhaust so you maximize air flow across the insulation/joists.

These fans are sized to fit in a standard sized small vent openings you already have, and most are directional.

https://www.amazon.com/crawlspace-fan-humidistat/s?k=crawlspace+fan+with+humidistat

I agree that calling 2-3 crawlspace companies tell them what your concerns are and that you would like a price to just add insulation, and a second price to do a full encapsulation (or whatever your couple of choices are), letting them crawl through the space then ask their opinion and recommendation. If you get 3 separate companies giving you the same basic information you can make an informed decision based on your climate zone and actual subgrade conditions.

I just debated this exact thing last fall. I really wanted a full encapsulation of my crawl space, but the price was crazy. I only have a 900 sq ft crawlspace and encapsulation came out to $13.50 sq ft. I live in Western Washington (Seattle area), so we do have a decent amount of rainfall and wet conditions most of the year, but with a fully vented crawlspace I have never had any issues with humidification or water in my crawlspace.

I decided against using a closed cell spray foam for the joists, not only because of the price, but also the horror stories I have read about the possible problems with off-gassing that has plagued the industry for years. I probably wouldn't be unlucky enough to be "that one in a million situation, but...I am Murphy's bitch sometimes. One bad install and you are never removing the spray foam to try it again.

I will use closed-cell for tight, hard to reach areas, or for the rim joist bays to get a 100% seal, but not in the open bays.

I got 3 quotes from different companies and ended up with , $900 for a 10 mill vapor barrier, $3,600 for the vapor barrier and R30 insulation in the floor joists, and $12,000 for Vapor barrier, floor insulation, R10 rigid insulation on the stem walls, 100% sealing, and installing a dehumidifier (electrical work was not included as I have dedicated outlets in my crawlspace already).

So $1.00 sq ft for 10 mil Vapor barrier$3.00 sq ft for R30 floor insulation$9.00 sq ft for rigid insulation and full seal (but also includes the cost of a dehumidifier...roughly $1100 is my guess)

https://imgur.com/a/T2LyCsX

I decided not to do the encapsulation and just did the vapor barrier and floor insulation, and then wrapped the exposed plumbing in neoprene insulation after the crawlspace company was done. I am still considering installing the Rigid insulation and sealing the crawlspace up myself this year.

I talked with 3 different crawlspace companies in my area and got the same basic answer, and roughly the same pricing. All three said they almost never do full encapsulation in my area unless there is a water problem in addition to the insulation need. I dont know if this is true, but I got it from 3 different sources that could have had an easy upsell, but they all talked me out of it. It could be with how busy companies were last year, but I am leaning towards believing them.

One thing 2 of them brought up (and I found in my online DIY researching) was if you do a full encapsulation you need to provide conditioned air from the living space down into the crawlspace and let it recirc back up into the house (if you are 100% sealing) to get the benefit of a true air-insulation barrier in the crawlspace. I've redone the floors in my house and have been sealing every crack in the floor prior to this, so now I would most likely need to cut holes somewhere in my floor to provide supply and return air to the crawlspace. Not a big deal, just something I have been reading about. You also need a dehumidifier down in the crawlspace and there is maintenance to think about on that piece of equipment as well as power and probably hiring and electrician on top of the install.