Making the plumbing bigger doesn't help if the well pump can't maintain the water flow necessary for the sprinkler.

Same goes for the filters too.

Add up the GPM of all the sprinklers you plan on running at the same time and see if the filter and pump can supply that water.

OSB is for subfloor and MDF is for underlayment. If you can't get 5/8" MDF, then consider getting 1/2" MDF + 1/8" hardboard. You can use OSB but I would personally go sanded plywood. Same thickness and shim it up using chipboard or similar so that its at the same height.

While the 5% difference is barely noticeable, for LVP and similar flooring options, it will be a pain to install and will crack over time.

Either the schluter shower bench or another similar product that you can water proof especially since you should have the cement board seams waterproof.

If there are instructions on how to install, then I suggest you get the structure to the point that the instructions start at. Maybe not the optimal path, but at least you can install the windows as the manufacturer recommends.

Wago, never deal with a nut again.

Pentek big blue filtration system. It is the DIY filtration system that has tons of different filters.

For my well I do the following filtration. 20micron particulate filter -> Radial iron filter -> Activated Carbon filter.

Then just replace the particulate filter when water volume gets low and replace the iron filter every other time. The carbon filter is replaced once per year.

Call your local county/city (depends on jurisdiction) inspection office and they can tell you if there is a code conflict with that.

Its not really frames in the sense of movies, but instead animation curves. It would be nice if it had other forms of motion besides a linear interpolation.

Yes, but I would use slightly wetter mud for the first coat as thinset soaks in the moisture.

You can paint over thinset but it will look like painted thinset/cement. If that is the look you want, then go for it.

Otherwise, you can drywall mud it back to a flatter surface.

Thank you for posting this. The framing looks very similar to a window in a load bearing wall.

That looks a lot like this one:

https://i.stack.imgur.com/lZxAA.jpg

In your first picture I think I see your packing nut as the gray thing behind the stem.

Either way, there should be something to unscrew from the front and remove in order to replace that stem body.

In order to do that, turn OFF the water and then OPEN the shower/tub water flow. What you are doing there is removing the pressure. That body is under 60psi (water pressure) so you wouldn't be able to unscrew anything without first relieving the pressure.

Then you can goto your local home improvement store and hopefully find a replacement.

In order to remove the stem, you shouldn't have to come from behind. There should be a bonnet that holds the stem onto the valve body so that it can be replaced.

So either the valve stem screws in or there is a bonnet that screws over the stem to hold it in.

Take a picture of the top of the valve.

https://www.menards.com/main/building-materials/siding/vinyl-siding/novik-reg-hand-laid-brick-look18-5-x-48-polymer-siding-panel/10005205/p-1444449676878-c-5838.htm

I understand you need brick but do you need literal brick or just something that looks like brick like "Brick Vinyl"?

U shaped vents are typically for air intakes.

Amazon sells the adjustable ones for $40

https://www.amazon.com/LESLIE-LOCKE-5070-Aluminium-Adjustable-Throat/dp/B0002YX80S/

>Can I put a junction box right below the charger and splice the wires going from awg 6 to awg 8 for the final 2 feet to the charger.

Yes, but don't wire nut that. What you want is a tap connector.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Polaris-4-14-AWG-Bagged-Insulated-Tap-Connector-Black-IT-4B/303577920

That will guarantee the connection is tight and won't come lose or arc.