Chain Link Fence Post Removal - Help!

Submitted by pnw_hvac t3_122vcvk in DIY

I am having difficulty removing these chain link fence posts from concrete in my backyard (13 in total). Currently I'm using a Sawzall with metal cutting blades, but haven't made much progress. Concerned that the posts are mounted over something that is solid/thick metal. Any suggestions or ideas on how to quickly/cleanly get through this project?

I am a novice, but have most tools needed to rebuild a fence (wooden fence this time) and have been using YouTube to make incremental progress. Most of the chain link fence videos I've seen are geared towards removing posts from the ground (not concrete), removing the chain link itself, etc.

Will continue to search for info on all of this but would appreciate any help from those on Reddit who professionally do this work or have done it on their own in the past. Thanks again!

https://preview.redd.it/27xru4a3p4qa1.jpg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&v=enabled&s=54d52c12c421ae603a8e9fc1f3d27970d13281d1

https://preview.redd.it/oorqe6a3p4qa1.jpg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&v=enabled&s=77080a72e8cd061b26ebc6f599fbef549fab4e10

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Likesdirt t1_jds29b8 wrote

There's concrete in them, at least a little. It flows up the open ended tube or a little was added to the top.

Buy an angle grinder, face shield, and cutting disks. Some grinding wheels too but the disks will do the bulk of the work. A gas powered demo saw would be even better if you can rent one and handle it (they're heavy and dangerous, will cut flesh like a chainsaw).

Metal cutting abrasive disks don't mind cutting some masonry.

Sawzall blade teeth dull immediately in masonry.

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mclovin0541 t1_jdtgi8l wrote

The grinder doesn't care what it cuts and the wheel doesn't get dull. Buy a couple packs of discs and wear a mask for concrete dust. If you really want to go fast, you probably only need to cut the pipes a little over half way then bend back and forth to break them. You can clean up with a grinding wheel. Don't use a demo saw unless you're used to it... It's a lot of power to handle.

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CheeryBanker t1_jds3m4i wrote

I just replaced my chain link with wooden fence and I just reused the poles instead of sinking 4x4s. The extenders and hardware weren't overly expensive.

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throwawayagain4567 t1_jds5lub wrote

Fencer here - I would agree.

The pipe looks like it's a heavier wall, you can either sleeve the entire post or buy brackets to mount board fence to pipe, with larger diameter pipe you can actually run self tappers in through the pipe.

Save yourself a bunch of work and talk to a fence pro about building on the existing structure.

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pnw_hvac OP t1_jdsaawo wrote

We’ve had people out to look - 3 companies here in Seattle. All of them wanted to do the work, but we never got past the initial quote and pipe replacement/removal options because the lowest bid was $9,600 for 88 linear feet 😳

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throwawayagain4567 t1_jdsap0h wrote

I can understand that, a legit contractor wouldn't want to reuse old posts. I'll shoot you a message of the brackets I'm talking about. I'm glad to walk you through it.

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tiffspinscircles t1_jdtrg95 wrote

Can you send me a message too? I have a chain link surrounding and would love for it to be a privacy fence.

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Krull97 t1_jdv38hg wrote

I too would love this information, happy if you just copy/paste what you've already sent!

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throwawayagain4567 t1_jdvpgke wrote

I sent a link to a random pintrest that has the brackets.

Its important that your existing posts are stable and free of rust ( as the OP's posts are) and a relatively heavy wall pipe. Sometimes you can add an interior sleeve to add rigidity if it's light wall. Typically you'd have 2 horizontal stringers for 3/4/5' tall fence meaning you'd need two of these brackets per post. 6/7' need 3 horizontals, thus 3 brackets per post.

If your posts aren't tall enough sometimes you can add an exterior sleeve to extend them. Chainlink pipe comes in funky sizes, to measure take a tape across the top of the post and go to the 1/8"

1 3/8 is common for dog kennels and residential toprail. 1 5/8 is a common line post size for residential line posts and commercial toprail. 1 7/8 is a common size for residential terminal (corners and ends) posts or light commercial line posts

2 3/8 and 2 7/8 are typically commercial applications.

Typically the smaller pipe sizes nest well, depending on wall thickness so you can figure out what length and diameter sleeve you need based on what you currently have.

It was also mentioned above to watch post spacing, I would agree that's its not ideal to go over 8' centers, you can get a post on a base plate to set as an intermediate if you are going on concrete / on a wall as the OP is. For a standard DIY project install I'd just dig and set a post in between the existing. Granted this is not how I would do it in my business but it works for a homeowner project to cut the labor.

I hope that helps, hit me with any other questions.

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kjbenner t1_jds4mmz wrote

This is what I was thinking. OP, if your posts are in good shape still, check this out before you cut them all out: https://www.hooverfence.com/fence-accessories/fence-brackets

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Krull97 t1_jdv3dff wrote

Does this work if the pipes are short? I have a ~3ft chain link, but would like a taller wooden one someday.

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pnw_hvac OP t1_jdsa2cx wrote

I have considered this option but wasn’t sold on it. Someone below mentioned a sleeve - I need to look into that. The bracket option is probably the easiest, but I’m also trying to appease a really great next door neighbor and my wife, who wants it done right (read: looks great all around) if we aren’t going to hire a fence company and I do it myself lol

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throwawayagain4567 t1_jds70q2 wrote

Fencer Here -

Stop cutting now and save yourself some work.

You can buy pipe post adapters, for 1 7/8 or 2 3/8 pipe. Even if you need to sleeve the existing to make it work you'll be better off.

Lowes advertises that they have the adapters. Call a local fence contractor to get them to cut sleeves if you need them, don't bother with the light wall stuff at the home stores.

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pnw_hvac OP t1_jdsanoj wrote

Alright, you are the second person to mention sleeves. I need to look at this. I wonder if I can buy them pre-cut or if I need to have them done as a one-off by a fencing pro?

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MoeBacon4246 t1_jdsfj7n wrote

Home depot has the brackets too. What will matter is the spacing of those existing posts. If you are buying premade sections the spacing will probably be too big. If too small you can of course cut the section down. If its longer you can build the sections custom sized with 2x4s and pickets. You could also rent a core drill and add extra metal posts in between. Good luck!

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pnw_hvac OP t1_jdsat6g wrote

Damn this subreddit has been outstanding. Keep the comments coming, I am genuinely thrilled with everyone’s help!!

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hui214 t1_jds2erz wrote

I used a stand up car jack with a piece of chain wrapped around the pole. It pulled them out clean and I was able to use the same hole. I did this after heavy rain, so the hole was completely flooded. Poured a bag of concrete and mixed with a heavy duty drill and set my posts for an 8 foot fence.

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pnw_hvac OP t1_jds9qj9 wrote

Probably an ideal solution. I am considering this but will need to test it on a section first. Part of my concern is that the concrete foundation they are sitting in right now isn’t in great shape. Enough force and sections of it might fail.

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Walkop t1_jdt23vk wrote

Even if sections fail, they'll be very easy to remove. Once you get part of it out. The hole will have voids and pieces will just fall in.

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knixatemylunch t1_jdscump wrote

if you are building wooden fence on the same line, why don't you incorporated the post into the wood fence, seems like it is sturdy enough

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AvonMustang t1_jdti35v wrote

This is the way. Those are obviously really good posts so I'd just use them for the new fence. Plus cutting them off and leaving the stump with that concrete pad is going to look way worse than mixing the metal post and wood fence...

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jackfish72 t1_jdse813 wrote

I’ve pulled a lot of posts of all sorts with a chain and jackall. (High lift jack, like what you see Jeep drivers strap to their vehicle). It will even pull a steel post out of concrete, unless there is something protruding from the pipe to hold it. Sometimes I cut the pipe at about 3 feet from the ground and hit it a couple times hard straight down with a sledge hammer to break it free. Then pull with jack.

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Walkop t1_jdt1vd8 wrote

Landscape contractor here. They're super easy to remove with a farm jack. All you need is some transport chain and a farm jack (Harbor Freight). You can pop a post out that's been mounted in concrete in about 2 minutes.

Take the farm jack, put it on a smooth surface, then wrap the chain around the post a few times and around the jack. When you lift the jack up, the chain will tighten and bite into the post. It'll rip it out of the ground with the concrete.

I did this recently to about 20 posts with the links, and then replaced it with a new fence with aluminum 4x4s and wooden slants. Worked perfectly. Removing the old fence was actually the fastest part of the process.

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Narrow_Competition41 t1_jdrynq9 wrote

Rent an acetylene welder/cutter from United...

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Syndicofberyl t1_jds314g wrote

Invest in a respirator. Zinc oxide is bad stuff

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george_graves t1_jdsee44 wrote

It'll make you feel sick - but nothing long-term. Been there done that (someone next to me was welding on some zinc before I had a chance to notice.

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they_are_out_there t1_jdtfid7 wrote

This is accurate. Metal fume fever will make you feel like you have the worst flu and make you feel like you're going to die. Some guys say drinking a lot of milk helps but there's really no studies that back that up. The Doc is going to do nothing but tell you to avoid breathing zinc and you'll recover on your own, usually within 24 hours.

Lung damage could occur, but most guys build up a resistance throughout the week, then show sensitivity on Mondays after being a few days away. That's why it's also known as "Monday Fever". It goes away again with most guys within a day or two.

When it all shakes out, the zinc doesn't remain in your body and you'll be up and feeling better in 24 hours. It also hasn't shown to be cumulative or any worse with future incidents. You should definitely avoid it, but it's not on the same level as breathing other metal particulates or bad stuff like hexavalent chromium. I deal with this issue all the time and the guys down voting don't know what they're talking about.

It's not great and you should always wear a particulate filter like an N95 or better when removing the zinc before welding. Use a flap wheel, sander, or grinder. Keep the wind at your back or side where it can blow particulates away from you. Don't spray cold process zinc galvanizing spray on it either until the welds have fully cooled down.

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pnw_hvac OP t1_jds9suf wrote

Lmfao. This is above my pay grade and I’m too much of a sissy to do this.

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Narrow_Competition41 t1_jdsck0q wrote

That's normal. First couple of times I used mine I was freaked out about starting a fire... even when there wasn't anything flammable around! 😅

Btw, are you seeing any kind of dust material flying out of the sawzall cutting? If so, it's probably filled with concrete...

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FriendOfShaq t1_jdrzyc4 wrote

Cuttin' shit with fire. That's the way!

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Narrow_Competition41 t1_jds9fm7 wrote

I bought an acetylene kit years ago and I actually didn't need one at the time, I just wanted one. Now I'm one torch cutting m'fer...😅

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kerbob97 t1_jdsn97x wrote

If most of the posts are solid, just use them as others have said. You can come back and stain the fence boards, and paint the posts themselves.

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Minute_Flan_3871 t1_jdspok9 wrote

There’s a hgtv builder Nicole someone and she used the metal posts in her wooden fence build. You couldn’t even see them and the reasons you struggle made it a great choice to support the new wood. I wish I could link things and add pics like the cool kids but the idea and Google is plenty for a doer as yourself. Hope it helps but it was genius promise.

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kevindbaker2863 t1_jdtnvxy wrote

just attach your wood fence to the steel poles. otherwise you gotta rip out all that concrete

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TrollinDaGalaxy t1_jdvxcm4 wrote

Wear eye glasses and face shield! All it takes is one piece to change your life

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festerwl t1_jds30on wrote

What blades are you using? In my experience Diablo blades are worth the extra cost.

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pnw_hvac OP t1_jdsagzf wrote

I have been using Diablo, but potentially not rigid enough. It was a 25 pack of metal cutting blades from Amazon (don’t yell at me!)

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Mikesturant t1_jdsyk4b wrote

Chain or strap, choke loop, pull with vehicle.

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cantcatchafish t1_jdt3lrn wrote

If you are trying to cut at grade then a band saw.

If you want to yank it out buy a pull jack and get a post puller. Attack pull jack to post puller and crank. It’ll come out.

If the footer is deep or adhered to concrete sidewalk etc you may have to jack hammer it.

Also you can attach it to a truck hitch with a chain and pull.

I worked in the fence industry for a few years mostly doing repairs. We’ve pulled up 6” steel posts with 300 lbs slugs with a pullback and a post puller before.

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tossme68 t1_jdt6f1e wrote

Using a sawzall is probably your best bet, certainly the fastest way to knock it out. If you want to actually remove the posts you need to get a hose and soak the area around the post (water the post like a thirsty plant). once it gets really wet use a post puller (you can pick one up for $30-40) and a lot of muscle. Honestly I removed the chain link fence at my building and my neighbors and I pilled out probably a dozen posts with the concrete and then I just flush cut the posts and a few years later you can't really tell the difference.

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SpiderMcLurk t1_jdum3w5 wrote

Just buy square tube that slides tightly over the existing circular tubes and use them as uprights.

Then railings and pailings as usual

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Neither-Box8081 t1_jdur0tu wrote

No expert, but I wonder if he took an angle grinder to the metal tube, then used like a tile saw attach (diamond blade?) and cut the concrete out of the tube? (If there is indeed concrete inside?

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Local_Variation_749 t1_jdvfjeb wrote

Man, you're giving me flashbacks.

My method for removal was to cut them off about 2' from the ground, then use a BAH to loosen them up a bit, then use a floor jack and chains as some have mentioned to pull them up. Of course that only worked for about 2/3 of them. For the rest I ended up having to rent a jackhammer from Home Depot to break up the concrete poured around the posts along with a pick and shovel to dig down until I got far enough to remove them. In my case, I was adamant that I wasn't just going to cut them off flush with the ground and call it good enough.

But it looks like you have a bit of a wall there that you probably don't want to destroy, and from the sounds of it, there's good advice to simply reuse the posts for your wood fence. That's exactly how the fence was in my yard; I only removed it because I wanted to open up more area. But the metal posts were extremely solid, and it doesn't look bad at all as a finished product.

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Wildweed t1_jdvri9s wrote

If you really want to properly remove the old cemented in posts, rent a jackhammer for an afternoon from your local tool rental business and break up the concrete around the post, it will all come out relatively easily once broken up and there won't be any place for kids, dogs or wildlife to hurt themselves on a cut off pipe mounted into cement.

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