How to make a 60” bathroom vanity work between two walls that are 63” apart?

Submitted by HistoricalZoidberg t3_122byvb in DIY

So my bathroom has an alcove that measures 63”. I currently have a vanity I’m looking at that will measure 60” for the cabinet and 61” with the countertop. That means I’ll have about a 1” gap on each side of the wall.

How would you fill in that gap on both sides? I understand about putting a filler piece of wood on the side but what about the counter space area? All of the sidesplashs that match I’m seeing around about 0.75” thick meaning that there will be a .25” gap still leftover technically.

15

Comments

You must log in or register to comment.

cmain88z t1_jdpqnc1 wrote

maybe slide it to one side make a 3 inch bookshelf with a toothbrush holder and other bathroom organizer stuff on it

28

PLEASEHIREZ t1_jdq01n5 wrote

You're currently looking at the vanity, you don't have it yet? Does this vanity come with the countertop, or you're ordering a countertop for it? If you're ordering the theophylline, ask them to cut it to 63", the put your block on the sides of the vanity to cover the holes. The do your backsplash on the walls, then caulk where the countertop meets the backsplash.

23

brlytl2 t1_jdqmq6l wrote

When are we going to start including pictures for context with these types of posts?

8

Brubouy t1_jdrvazd wrote

Look at you and your fancy new ideas about pictures. What do you think this is a platform for sharing information. Very slippery path i say, what's next? Videos?

1

Shopshack t1_jdqvv0m wrote

Use a furniture style vanity, and no side splashes. I’ve done that in two bathrooms in my place.

6

MyMomSaysIAmCool t1_jdqybaa wrote

Leave the gap and put an outlet down below it. Anything electric can be plugged in down there and the cord can dangle into the gap, leaving the counter nice and clean.

4

GregoYatzee t1_jdssllk wrote

I believe code is for bath outlets to be above when a certain distance from sink for safety.

2

MyMomSaysIAmCool t1_je0nj84 wrote

I did some googling, and I didn't find anything prohibiting it. There's a discussion here about the subject, and the general consensus is "If it's GFI protected, go for it"

https://forums.mikeholt.com/threads/receptacle-under-bathroom-sink.10358/

A lot of kitchen sinks have outlets and switches underneath to operate the garbage disposals. So I think it'll be OK.

I'm not an electrician, so take my advice with a grain of salt. But I'd be comfortable with it in my home. I'd use a GFI outlet (or two in series for extra safety) and position the outlet box where it won't get soaked if the sink overflows. For extra points I could use an outdoor rated box. But that feels like overkill to me.

2

hnrsn14 t1_jds90k0 wrote

Good thought but a 1” gap is not big enough to fit a hand. The outlet would have to be right at the front or else it would be functionally useless.

0

MyMomSaysIAmCool t1_jdsnixu wrote

The outlet could be in the cabinet below. You'd just need enough room to snake the cord down into the cabinet. Make sure that you can fit a bulky plug, like the ones on hairdryers.

2

mouseman420 t1_jdqhel8 wrote

Make a 1x4 to match cabinets. Rip in half and splice 1 1/2 " on each side them make counter to fit.

2

Most-Region8151 t1_jdr5g50 wrote

Simple.......put fillers on either side of the vanity and order a bigger top and cut it to fit between the walls. Or order a top made to fit.

All that gap is gonna look like crap! Dust bunnies forever.

2

thebluelunarmonkey t1_jdpxhiy wrote

Mount your side splashes as normal. Move the vanity flush with one of the sidesplashes. Get a another length of sidesplash and mount it horizontally like a little raised shelf you can put your toothpaste, cologne, liquid soap bottle, etc out of the way... like it was intentional so you can clean the vanity top without having to move everything. The gap below the shelf will be visible if the face of the vanity is a solid cabinet. If it's a vanity with legs like a table then the gap won't really stand out.

For the gap against the back wall and the vanity will the the hardest to make look good.

Get some project board and cut the width of the gap and length of the front side of the cabinet. Paint it the color of the cabinet or wall color.

Dry fit your ptrap before deciding which side to put the extra sidesplash piece, might be easier to connect with the vanity shifted right or left. If you have a medicine cabinet on one side, put the extra piece on that side.

​

Nah. Visualized it and looks weird, both with sidesplash mounted to wall or mounted to flush with vanity.

Vanities and vanity tops can be sold separate. Hold out for finding a top that'll fit that 63" or have a custom counter company cut you one to size and back and side backsplashes along with cutting holes for faucet and drop in sink. Browse their remnants... a jumbo slab measures 63" on its side.

1

BigOnLogn t1_jdr28xl wrote

Tile trim edging + caulk to fill the .25"?

1

so-very-very-tired t1_jdrdg03 wrote

I'd consider getting a smaller vanity so that the gaps on the side look intentional.

1

teradactyl-rex t1_jdrltha wrote

Float it off the wall with even gap on either side and recess a led strip behind the mirror shining out (glowing from behind the mirror) this will act as a 'vanity' light setup, and look nice.

1

Brubouy t1_jdrwdy8 wrote

Inch and a half filler scribes to match the cabinet, custom made top to fit the space. Any thing less is just making stuff up to cover a gap. Nothing wrong with making up stuff to cover a gap if your OK with that. I make and install cabinets for a living and what I described is what I would consider doing the job correctly and it is how I would do it at my house. If you are in the Portland Oregon area maybe I could help you out. Offer void if you are a serial killer.

1

Chaseph t1_jds4r3n wrote

I would say just let there be 1.5" gaps on each side.

If you really want it to be a perfect fit, fur out the wall with flat 2x4s + drywall. 1.5" 2x4 + 0.5" drywall gives you the perfect 61" fit.

1

Successful-Curve-986 t1_jduyhlu wrote

You could always use extra thinset to build out the wall the .25" but just make sure they make the right schluter trim to accommodate. At that point i think ordering a larger countertop would be the way to go

1

nhskimaple t1_jdqb0jk wrote

You really need to reconsider the vanity OR get a custom top. Simple as that

0

tommyleeyyz t1_jdqdrrc wrote

Will having a 1" gap really be that awful? It is a finished vanity vs a builder's built-in, so it will at least look clean at the ends.

0

nothanx_nospanx t1_jdrve9c wrote

Yeah and free-standing vanities that look like furniture are very in right now. You might be able to add (decorative) feet under the front of the cabinet to add to that look.

1

malthar76 t1_jdrw9ig wrote

Did exactly that. Not many vanities come in 12” depth 36” wide, but upper cabinets do. Color matched furniture feet from Amazon.

Somehow top and sink were easy to find.

1

hnrsn14 t1_jds9con wrote

Yes, I think specifically because of that 1” gap. Things are going to fall down there all the time, going to need a skinny broom handle to fish the stuff out, if something spills down the cabinet or onto the floor— forget being able to clean it, imagine the dust and grime. I would say yeah, a 1” gap is going to be awful to clean and maintain.

1

Hardworktobelucky t1_jdqed41 wrote

We’re in the same boat (literally same niche and vanity widths). We decided we’re going to install it anyways and see if the gap drives us nuts.

If it does then we’re going to buy custom side splashes extra thick with the right cut outs to make it look full/continuous.

Other ideas we considered:

  • adding drywall on one or both sides to narrow the niche ( was going to be a pain because the electrical would need to move)

  • creating some kind of hidden 2” storage pull out to fill the space

Such a pain!

0

TheDirtyDagger t1_jdppz64 wrote

A couple tubes of caulk should do it, just make sure you get the mold-proof 40 year.

−1

jrico59 t1_jdqt17h wrote

The solution is always the same: caulk and paint

−2