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SuckMeFillySideways t1_iu95q8w wrote

Get some wood glue. It doesn't matter if it's Titebond, Elmer's, or whatever. Wood glue is way stronger than No More Nails and is stronger than the wood itself.

Regardless, I'd recommend you use some clamping force (not the hand of God, that's unnecessary) until it dries. If you are finding that the pieces are slipping too much while trying to clamp, put some salt on the glue line to get some grip.

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ender4171 t1_iu9xdso wrote

I'll add the caveat that wood glue is only stronger than the wood itself if you've made a proper joint. If there is any significant gap between your boards that is essentially being "filled" with wood glue, it isn't very strong at all. As long as your joint in tight and clean though, there really isn't anything that performs better, and certainly not for the price and ease of use.

If your joint is janky though, a polyurethane construction adhesive like Liquid Nail is a better choice.

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PLS_SEND_NEWTS t1_iuaypco wrote

Out of curiosity. Would there be a situation when making a paste of wood glue and sawdust be desireable? Specifically in regards to “filling” small gaps, I wonder if it would be stronger or weaker.

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nmyron3983 t1_iuaztmf wrote

That's a great way to fill old screw holes, like say you strip a screw or something.

But it's not going to bond a good joint that way. Wood glue works best when spread evenly between two square faces, and clamped with sufficient force to make it slightly seep out along the length of the joint.

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Stonetechie t1_iubd71s wrote

And ideally avoid endgrain or anything with finish on it- you’re not gonna get wood glue to stick to something painted, clear coated, waxed or pre stained. I can’t tell from op’s description but if it’s gluing new pieces to prefinished, use a construction adhesive or nail in cleats to support the shelf

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ender4171 t1_iuba3zj wrote

That's a good (and common) method for filling things cosmetically, but would not be a good structural bond.

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eviljattmolda t1_iu9thsi wrote

Salt on the glue line? That's a neat trick! I'll have to remember this.

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davisyoung t1_iuaa0dc wrote

I wouldn’t recommend salt if you already experience high blood pressure during glue ups.

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OuidOuigi t1_iu9ti6r wrote

Hey, thanks for the salt tip first time I've heard of it. Probably won't remember when I need it again but still a good tip.

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Mydadshands t1_iu9y1s4 wrote

Would sand or any sort of grit also work?

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scarabic t1_iu9yx4l wrote

Yes, because this works by physical action. Salt is recommended because it’s always around and it has a fine, consistent grit that is small enough that it won’t force your pieces apart. Personally I wouldn’t do sand because its grains are all different sizes but in a pinch it could work.

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Sh36fjk374fjc t1_iuah7ti wrote

I often hear that wood glue is stronger than wood but if you glue end grain to end grain and then apply stress it will break at that connection. What gives? I’m probably just stupid.

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potent01 t1_iuar6bn wrote

The caveat is that wood glue is stronger than wood if used correctly. Wood glue works best gluing grain to grain. It’s easy to split wood along the grain because the natural bond between the fibers is not that strong and it’s that bond that the wood glue is great at replicating. In your example the wood glue is being tested against the strength of the fibers rather than the bond between them

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Stonetechie t1_iubdiyd wrote

Also it usually won’t penetrate into endgrain to get a good bond- lots of YouTube videos on guys like Mathias Wendell and others strength testing different joints and glue joints! I recommend many diy’er to watch some so they have a comparative understanding of different basic construction methods - then you can pick appropriately

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nmyron3983 t1_iuazxx6 wrote

>... put some salt on the glue line to get some grip.

I've also used some fine sawdust from my sander for this as well.

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