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wd40bomber7 t1_iuac13o wrote

The pulls themselves look good, but is it just me or are they mounted crooked? Maybe its just the camera angle.

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some_kind_of_rob t1_iuac23p wrote

Here I assumed you’d just screwed the bolts into the drawer fronts

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TheRealBeakerboy OP t1_iuahhtb wrote

Replying to some_kind_of_rob (#322,476)

That’s not a bad idea. Drill a large hole and install some tee nuts and then screw some stubby bolts into the tee nut. Probably would have to use some Epoxy on the threads to prevent them from screwing in and out

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OsmeOxys t1_iuatehi wrote

Neat idea. I like it, though it looks like you forgot to adequately beat on the top one with a hammer lol.

Fastener drawers complete. Next up, one for the wrenches. Just be careful when you get around to the knives, shears, and saws drawer.

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TheRealBeakerboy OP t1_iuawnhq wrote

Replying to OsmeOxys (#325,648)

i have seen something similar to what I’ve done with open-ended wrenches. I think something was welded onto them. A large saws-all blade would make an impressive drawer pull!

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Keisaku t1_iuaxani wrote

Buy yourself a combination square. Perfect height lineup every time.

Source: carpenter.

Pretty cool though.

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TheRealBeakerboy OP t1_iuazn43 wrote

Replying to Keisaku (#326,382)

Excellent advice. Unfortunately there is a lot of non-square and non-level issues with the cabinets. My 74 year old father helped me build them and he is often more focused on speed and efficiency over accuracy.

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EMCoupling t1_iub103y wrote

Replying to TheRealBeakerboy (#326,821)

> My 74 year old father helped me build them and he is often more focused on speed and efficiency over accuracy.

My father is the same way, it drives me nuts. For me, projects almost aren't worth doing if we just cut corners and take shortcuts the whole way through.

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SoCal_Bob t1_iub74i2 wrote

That's pretty cool! Just a heads-up, the grade 8 bolts are made from hardened alloy steel - which is why you're killing your drills and taps. If you're willing to paint them instead, you could save a lot of headache by going with grade 2 or lower bolts.

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SnowFlakeUsername2 t1_iub89gl wrote

Perhaps they would be easier to square and sturdier if the bolt was filed flat were the standoffs meet with it? Like before drilling the holes.

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discretion t1_iub8f0z wrote

<looks at first photo> Oh cute, little welded standoffs. Looks tidy.

<looks at second photo> Oh my Lord.

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New2ThisThrowaway t1_iubph4e wrote

Pretty cool.

But, bro. Next tool you should purchase is a drill press vise. $20 at harbor freight before coupons.

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KamovInOnUp t1_iuc1qa5 wrote

I'll never shit on anyone for trying a different technique, but I can't help but feel like this could be accomplished with mere seconds of welding

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Ill-Poet-3298 t1_iud6e9e wrote

Enjoy having the ends catch on your clothes every single time you walk anywhere near them.

−1

Handy_Dude t1_iud6xwk wrote

Drilling into grade 8 bolts? What are you a drill bit salesman?

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TheRealBeakerboy OP t1_iud9rkl wrote

Replying to KamovInOnUp (#334,474)

Please share how you would do it! Hex standoffs are either aluminum or brass and I like the shiny gold of the zinc plating on the grade 8 bolts. I probably could have drilled in a larger diameter hole and attached the stand-off with epoxy instead of threading the hole.

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xloud t1_iudc9jh wrote

Is it safe to drill into yellow zinc? Don't they use hexavalent chromium to make it stick to the metal?

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sonorguy t1_iudectl wrote

I think you cross threaded those bolts /s

Good stuff!

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TheRealBeakerboy OP t1_iudgmiw wrote

Replying to xloud (#343,260)

A little googling shows there are a couple different ways to make this coating. The hexavalent version is currently not allowed by the EU, but I have no idea if it’s still allowed in the US. Sounds like a big problem among people who perform stainless welding and grinding.

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amznfire t1_iudi1nf wrote

Replying to EMCoupling (#327,123)

Omg my FIL is the same way. Built a short section of fence from random length boards, which is fine because every sane person would just cut off the top with a straight edge.

But no, clamping a straight edge takes too much time, so he free handed it. Guess who now lives with a wonky looking wavy fence.

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TheRealBeakerboy OP t1_iues866 wrote

Replying to OsmeOxys (#325,648)

I’ve actually been thinking a bit about this since you wrote this comment…I ruined 6 bolts out of 15 learning how to do all this. So that means I either have to buy a few more bolts or get creative. Maybe I can label the electrical stuff drawer by using large wire nuts as knobs, and my painting supply drawer could have a paint can opener with the offsets tapped into it. I have a nice rolling toolbox for most of my “tools” so this desk is mainly specialized tools and supplies.

My drawers are, automotive stuff, General hardware, gardening, painting / drywall, plumbing, electrical. Feel free to toss out any viable suggestions.

Bonus pics https://i.imgur.com/oI9PO0u.jpeg https://imgur.com/gallery/kmQfyhx

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SnowFlakeUsername2 t1_iuf4umd wrote

Replying to TheRealBeakerboy (#356,408)

For sure. I was more so thinking that the standoffs are flat where it contacts the bolt when screwed in. If both surfaces are flat where they meet than it resists twisting better than a flat surface meeting a rounded one. Maybe it doesn't really matter for a door pull.

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