Submitted by lobsterp0t t3_zy50og in DIY

The support rail for the bed slats came away from the side of the bed frame.

The bed frame has a centre rail that runs vertically. This is fixed into brass brackets on either end. But the side rails (one of which came away) are just screwed directly into the side panel.

The bed side panel itself is not made of wood - it is heavier duty (?!) MDF or something. But I probably wouldn’t have just screwed soft wood straight into it the way they designed it, for exactly this reason..

I’ve contacted the seller - it is only 2 years old and we didn’t get the cheapest possible frame or anything. Though it clearly isn’t as quality as we thought.

Meanwhile I would like opinions on repair options.

Option 1: make new holes and reinstall the same bit of wood where it originally was. Think this is easiest for now but also dumbest because it will surely just fail identically and potentially damage the side panel, which I am not sure about replacing.

Option 2: change the configuration of the support rail so there are 3 or 4 going across side to side, instead of one going up the middle top to bottom. This would require changing the slat set up slightly so they can still attach at the top and bottom (they hook onto little pegs currently)

Option 3: remove all the rails and centre post hardware and get a bed base that fits inside the frame

Thoughts? I have a feeling Next will not replace it and I doubt they have spares - I also don’t fancy option 1 as I expect it will fail the same way as it just did. The rail was just screwed into the side.

Thoughts welcome. We have basic hand power tools but nothing fancy.

Picture, photo and Dog tax

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Comments

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DrBabs t1_j23vq0o wrote

Construction adhesive, wood clamps and move the screws to another spot would be my vote. Since it would be connected the entire length of the board it would be much stronger even if connected to fake wood.

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Reelplayer t1_j23wgx0 wrote

I second this idea of just moving the screws and adding glue. You could even add another support on the bottom and top rails if you want.

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lobsterp0t OP t1_j241y5c wrote

Thanks! This seems like the majority suggestion. I’ll go with this. Time to stop procrastinating buying clamps I guess!

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ekjustice t1_j24uojs wrote

If you can stand the look, using machine screws that go all the way through the rail would be a solid addition. With a counter sunk flat head on the exposed side and a nut and washer on the inside it would then almost not need clamps.

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DrBabs t1_j245pth wrote

Good thing clamps are cheap. And you would probably be good with wood glue, but switching to construction adhesive would be extra strong. If it’s good enough to hold your floor together, it’s good enough for your bed.

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lobsterp0t OP t1_j246cta wrote

Thanks, yes someone else mentioned the plastic coating on the MDF means wood glue wouldn’t stick unless I remove the coating. If I don’t remove the coating will construction adhesive work ok?

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DrBabs t1_j246r6j wrote

If you are going to use the screws again with it then it probably doesn’t matter. Just move them to a new spot to get a good bite. I would use the construction adhesive (like liquid nails). It’s a cheap bed so I wouldn’t overthink it.

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lobsterp0t OP t1_j246wn9 wrote

Cool. Yeah, it’s obviously not the quality we assumed. But we don’t have a casual £££ to throw at a new bed frame right now, so doing as good a repair as possible is worth it for me! Thank you.

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vshawk2 t1_j245ylo wrote

First, I would also clean-up and repair the existing holes as much as I could. IF you are working with particle board the holes can make it quite weaker. So, sand them down, fill with wood dowels and wood glue, let it all dry and sand it (again) smooth. Also, consider replacing the 2x2(?) that you currently have with something like a 2x4. Then you could make a few extra screw holes and have more surface area for the construction adhesive.

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jayb151 t1_j23vr5d wrote

You can go with option 1, but glue the entire board to the frame. Let that set over night before sleeping on it again.

You can also try drilling through the frame and board and using something like a flat head bolt on the outside of the frame and tighten it down. Id still use glue though.

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lobsterp0t OP t1_j241tcx wrote

Thanks, a few folks saying to clean it up, glue and screw new holes. I might do this to the other side as prevention also. I don’t mind buying clamps for this job, I need them anyway for a chair repair (thankfully we did not break the chair, it came that way in a set).

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havartifunk t1_j243lbh wrote

I have a sleigh bed with a similar structure inside for supporting the cross pieces.

In addition to the support that runs the length of each side, they also glued and screwed small blocks of wood at several places just underneath the side pieces for a little extra support.

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ThurstonHowell3rd t1_j24n5v8 wrote

Buy one of these, then bolt your laminated MDF sides, footboard, and headboard to it if you want the same look as what you have. Then throw away what's left of the old frame.

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ToolemeraPress t1_j23xd7l wrote

Option 3. Bolt the headboard to the new metal frame and sleep well.

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pandorafalters t1_j24tzei wrote

Usually my first approach to failures like this is threaded inserts (example), but since you mentioned it being MDF I'd go with connector/cap/dowel/etc. nuts (example). In either case I pair them with furniture bolts (example) slightly shorter than the combined thickness of the wood pieces.

The flat, flared heads on the nut and screw provide clamping over a larger area than adding washers to standard fasteners, making a more stable joint even through damaged wood. The low, rounded head profiles also greatly reduce the possibility of their catching on anything such as bedding or body parts.

Here in the US I'd usually find them at most local hardware stores, or always at one of the big box stores. For thicker joints I've used a pair of nuts coupling a section of threaded rod.

I've a nice, old desk chair that unfortunately the wood frame has degraded that's been held together quite solidly for years with this type of repair.

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Somerset76 t1_j27vkg6 wrote

I would get a separate bed frame and insert it

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dbhathcock t1_j28kwac wrote

Buy a metal bed frame to hold the mattress. Put it inside your “wood” frame, which would now just be decorative. If you want, you can attach this decorative frame to the metal frame. This would get all of the support off of the MDF. Add your slats or box spring, then mattress.

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Guygan t1_j23rqgo wrote

Post pictures

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lobsterp0t OP t1_j23skhx wrote

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BizzyM t1_j241uy8 wrote

I see you pointing and gesturing, but there's no sound.

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lobsterp0t OP t1_j242jv6 wrote

Sorry! I was explaining what I’ve written above - especially option 3. I don’t use Imgur at all so I obviously didn’t realise I needed to put the sound on 💀

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thehumble_1 t1_j23y4tp wrote

I'd bolt and glue the board back on but bolt it through the side board and use washers to spread the pressure out on the outside.

Then but another frame soon. Mdf frame sounds like trash regardless

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lobsterp0t OP t1_j242c70 wrote

Yeah, I was disappointed when it wasn’t wood - it wasn’t described as wood and mdf on the website - and at the time it wasn’t worth the hassle to return it.

I suppose longer term we could replace the long sides and short ends with wood that matches the actual wood feet, and stain the whole thing to match. It would just be the storage headboard that was MDF and that wouldn’t bother me.

We like the bed otherwise so ¯_(ツ)_/¯ lesson learnt

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thehumble_1 t1_j244agp wrote

It also looks like the mdf is plastic wrapped, so glue might not hold much at all unless you cut the plastic wood look wrapping off. I think you might be ahead by finding a friend with some wood tools and making the side pieces out of maple or ash. I'd also shit all over the company because that need is made to fail.

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lobsterp0t OP t1_j244n8d wrote

Argh. Ok thank you - very helpful.

I have one acquaintance that may be able to help.

Guess I’ll have to fight with the seller!

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SlartieB t1_j247sah wrote

You could probably get timber cut to length at any home improvement store, just measure the lengths you would need. Move the existing hardware over to the wood, using the mdf as a template. Extra wood blocks under the rails is a good idea, you could also get some prefab furniture legs at the home improvement store to go between the rail and floor to help carry the weight too

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John5247 t1_j23ytjw wrote

Go look up r/funny. A guy has just stuck a car jack under his bed after a similar frame failure.

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lobsterp0t OP t1_j241lh0 wrote

LOL. Gosh. I want my bed to look nice but I did laugh.

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l397flake t1_j26oe56 wrote

Why not just move the rail 2” min right or left and rescrew. All it does is support slats just make sure it’s reasonably level with the other side.

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lobsterp0t OP t1_j27wd86 wrote

Yes, that is option 1 above. I think it will just fail again.

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l397flake t1_j29qrtf wrote

It shouldn’t if you use decent wood screws, max length, or you got too much going on on the top of the bed. Ha Ha Ha

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