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CanThisBeEvery t1_je47glx wrote

Don’t let anybody rush you. When they say “Just let me know if you’re interested; we had somebody else looking at it this morning and they just went home to grab some paperwork…” No they didn’t. And even if they did, so what. There will always be more cars for sale. I can’t stress this enough: do not let them make you feel rushed. If you need a break, just say you need a break, or that you’re going to go call a friend for a few, or that you want to look something up on your phone. This will give you the time out to clear your head a bit.

Don’t let them sell you on window VIN etching or sealant coats or leather treatment or whatever. It’s the FINANCE people who will try to pressure you into these, not the person you initially negotiate with. And yes, you have to talk with the finance folks, even if you bring your own financing.

Stay strong! It’s a long process, and it can wear you down, but go into it expecting that, and you should be okay. Best of luck to you!

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Littlemonster93 OP t1_je77z7g wrote

What does it mean”don’t let them sell you on window VIN etching or sealant coats?” Sorry English is not my mother language

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CanThisBeEvery t1_jeatd4x wrote

Hi, sorry for the delayed reply.

This might not be applicable to you, but in the U.S., all vehicles have a Vehicle Identification Number (VIN), and it’s in multiple places on the vehicle. For some reason, dealerships try to sell you this service where they etch (scratch/write) the VIN into the glass on each of your windows. They claim this is a window theft deterrent, but I don’t think it really is. I’ve also never in my 43 years of life heard anybody complain about having had their windows stolen.

They also try to sell you on paint sealant on the exterior of your vehicle. Or at least they used to - I’ve purchased 11 vehicles in my time, but haven’t gotten one in the past 5 years, so they may not. In my opinion, the paint that manufacturers use is good enough and an extra sealant isn’t beneficial.

Both of these services are pretty expensive, and the finance people will often really pressure you to buy them. I’ve actually gone into their offices with my own financing before, and been like, “Hi, it’s nice to meet you. I’m glad the deal is all negotiated. I’m not buying window etching or sealant, so please don’t try to sell it to me.” It’s worked so far.

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Littlemonster93 OP t1_jeb187s wrote

Ahhh so it’s sorta like the apple care thing when you buy apple product. Not necessary but up to the individual to decide if they want or not. Well I’m glad you explained it to me because I don’t think I need any of those services!

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d-o-r_t-y__u-n_c-l_3 t1_je3z6zm wrote

Used car lots and often new car lots can magically make fees disappear if you ask firmly but nicely.

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TheyCallMeTurnip t1_je3zxue wrote

Never pay the price they have, always haggle for less. The most important rule is to always have a mechanic, who is not connect to the person or company so a full vehicle inspection. If they find anything, require the person or company to either fix it or subtract the repair cost from the price. Show them the estimate for repair. This has saved me thousands of dollars

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Littlemonster93 OP t1_je78a0o wrote

How do you have a third party mechanic to check before you buy the car? Or do you buy the car first and have mechanic to check on it after it’s purchased?

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TheyCallMeTurnip t1_je7a4rx wrote

I tell them I want to take it for a test drive and have it inspected by my mechanic. They should not have a problem with this as they will have a copy of your driver's license in the event anything is damaged. If they refuse, I tell them I must be allowed to do this to ensure there's not any defects in the vehicle or I'll purchase from another location. Never had an issue with that. I've had multiple cars with cracked engines, bad transmissions and almost completely failing ball bearings. the $20 inspection is nothing compared to the costs for those repairs.

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Littlemonster93 OP t1_je7af82 wrote

Omg this is so helpful, I never thought of that! Thank you so much for the enlightenment

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Purple_burglar_alarm t1_je3z8wh wrote

I'm sure people will reply with much better advice but I would advise doing your research on any car you're interested in buying. See how many of said car are available and see what the average price is for the milage on the cars, that will give you an idea of a fair price. Be very wary of a used car that doesn't have a log book to show it's service history and always be prepared to walk away if you're not getting the deal you want.

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flipback360 t1_je438nx wrote

Get a loan with your own bank. Theyll approve you for a certain amount. When you go to the dealer haggle . I recommend haggle enough so that the price is a good amount less than what your loan approval is for.

For example you get approved for 10k. The dealer is trying to sell you a car for 9k. Tell them something along the lines of ‘I can only go up to 8.5k. They’ll surely agree to that cause they also use a similar method as you except they try to increase the price and see what takes, while you are trying to decrease it if that makes any sense.

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Mcshiggs t1_je45b1x wrote

Go in and establish dominance, let them know you are the alpha, piss on their desk if you must. Their first offer simply respond with "Suck my balls."

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aredflower t1_je4iet8 wrote

Go for a small dealership if you can, they are usually more personable and honest.

Bring some one with you, it helps having a second set of senses.

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Downvote_me_dumbass t1_je50kqx wrote

Go in with a plan.

You should already have financing through a credit union or small bank. You need to do the research the lowesr interest rates in your area and payment repayment plan BEFORE you go to the dealership.

Once you get that done, and are issued a check by the credit union, you should plan on using up to 80% of the amount for the purchase of the vehicle.

This process is the most important as it lets you plan a budget and allow for anything extra that occurs during your shopping experience or the shanagans in the Finance Dept.

Look for the vehicle you want, but make sure you look at Consumer Reports before you buy. Yes you want a new car, but you should be buying this car with the ideology, “what can I get for this new car when I sell it down the road.” That means, the car should be rated high on Consumer Reports overall score. The last thing you want is a nice looking car where you have to spend your time working on it or having it in the shop.

  • When you’re ready at the dealership, don’t play their games of “what kind of payments are you looking at?” You’re already preapproved, so you’ve beating them at this game (they’ll make your payment plans if you’re there without preapproval, but it will be for long term at a higher interest rate, resulting in you paying more over the course of the loan).

  • Ask benign questions, if you’re interested in the car to establish a relationship and get a feel for the dealerships knowledge of the car. For example, ask “how many miles between oil changes.” Do a little research, and you should know this answer before you ask. Another good one is “does this come with a spare tire,” and check the trunk for one. Anyone telling you that they don’t put a spare in the trunk and put a tire pump in the back to “save MPGs” is straight up lying. There are manufacturers that do this to save production costs, but it isn’t even negligible on the MPGs for a spare to be in the back.

Check out the functions of the car, make sure the seats are comfortable and that the visibility when you move your body, such as in reverse or during lane changes is sufficent.

If you’re buying from a major dealer, your goal is to make sure the sticker price doesn’t have mark up. The manufacturers price should be the MAX (less taxes + doc) on what you pay.

  • Check your states DMV website to see if they have tax and fee webpage. This is why I previously mentioned the 80% too. As a general rule, roughly 10% of the cost of the car goes to DMV/State.

  • When you do get going with the Finance Guy at the dealership, you really need to stay firm and say “no” to any additional options. Window tint, accident options, and other services are cheaper if you hunt outside the dealership or go through your insurance. The only thing that might be cheaper is additional parts, like floormats and cerain OEM add-ons at the time of purchase as those will be covered under the cars warrenty.

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Bryan_Mills2020 t1_je54zo4 wrote

Never get emotionally attached to a car you're looking at; always be prepared to walk away if the seller won't negotiate a deal. Have your mechanic inspect the car especially if you're buying from a private seller. Always look at cars in the daylight and never in the dark.

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MasterLow6050 t1_je7r325 wrote

Former sales and finance. Do your research and know what you’re willing to pay. Always work the deal on purchase price and not payment. Finance thru a credit union for best rates and not at the dealer. They will add a point or two in interest to your deal in the finance office if they can. Don’t hesitate to walk away.

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rexel99 t1_je4e3zf wrote

always get an independent evaluation, either a test by a reputable tester or at least a good friend with decent experience in cars.

Check the cars Vin and I'd online for its history.

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keepthetips t1_je3ywci wrote

Hello and welcome to r/LifeProTips!

Please help us decide if this post is a good fit for the subreddit by up or downvoting this comment.

If you think that this is great advice to improve your life, please upvote. If you think this doesn't help you in any way, please downvote. If you don't care, leave it for the others to decide.

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dennirawr t1_je3zh3f wrote

Once you have found a car you like, (1) check that the person who sells it actually owns it, (2) check that no bank or loan company is listed ad having the car as security for a loan (online services exist for that, at least in AU), (3) check that it has not been registered as an insurance write-off in the past (also, online services for buying used cars often offer this check), (4) write a contract or use a standard form contract to ensure you have a document showing the date, odometer reading, names of parties, moneys paid... get signatures, (5) Importantly, ALWAYS get your own mechanical check done by an independent mechanic that you choose. Even if a car is sold with a safety certificate, you were not the customer of the mechanic who provided it and will have no recourse if anything goes wrong. Getting your own check will ensure that you are the person who pays for the service and who the mechanic has an obligation to. Again, here in AU, Auto Clubs offer mechanical checks for competitive prices. Don't be afraid to pay $150-250 for a mechanical check - it could save you thousands.

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Midnight_Yowler t1_je4uuop wrote

Join a credit union and get your car loan through them.

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