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TransSara t1_itnnost wrote

Tell them to give you a fail sticker. You have 15 days to get it fixed and reinspected. I would take it to another shop and see what they say. Also don’t let them give you the “I can’t let you leave with it because it’s not safe” line. That’s total bs.

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ztheday t1_itnotiu wrote

Thanks. That's another concern. I don't want to have to argue with them to get my car back.

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i_need_a_lift t1_itnppy7 wrote

You don't have to justify it to them, but if you feel the need to, you can always just tell them you have a friend who's going to fix it for free.

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BobbyFuckingB t1_itnu1fh wrote

Take the rejection sticker off before you go somewhere else

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oldguy_on_the_wire t1_itoh0om wrote

Somehow that sounds illegal as well as sketch AF.

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KiloLee t1_itp1bc0 wrote

It's not, it just takes away any "power of suggestion" for things to fail for the second inspector (rejection stickers have boxes to check, showing general areas like suspension, lights, tires, etc).

But if it fails again, they won't issue a new rejection sticker for you, they'll just leave it blank. Not to mention the obvious attention from the cops it will draw when driving around

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BlueXTC t1_itpah26 wrote

A rejection sticker will invalidate your insurance coverage so know that going in if you choose the route that is being suggested. It has been deemed "unsafe" even if it is BS. I had a similar situation and took it across the street to another inspection. Told him my concerns and he reinspected and found nothing wrong. He took the rejection sticker with him when he went across the street to talk to their service manager.

After that, every maintenance visit I had to do using the contract I had purchased with the car I always asked "how are the brakes". For almost 2 years I was always told they were fine. I finally replaced them about 3 years later.

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burledw t1_itpnajn wrote

Never heard this before are you sure?

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BlueXTC t1_itprfe6 wrote

Yes. I owned and operated an auto repair shop in the past. You can verify this with your insurance carrier.

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burledw t1_itprywt wrote

That seems it would be up to individual insurance carriers and be case by case because the state definitely advises that you are to drive as normal with a rejection sticker until you can be reinspected.

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OopsImACrow t1_itpj708 wrote

go to Preston’s on Patterson Ave and Starling. my dad’s Honda Civic was given a false-failure, and when he took it to them they said there wasn’t a problem with the car. they’re a really great company, I’ve had the pleasure of working with them on my old Mini Cooper in the past.

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BurkeyTurger t1_itnnmzc wrote

You get 15 days from whatever date they put on the rejection sticker.

Yes you can get a 2nd opinion.

https://law.lis.virginia.gov/admincode/title19/agency30/chapter70/section60/

It is impossible for us to know whether you are TA. As the owner of an 8 YO vehicle that has already had it's rear struts replaced and is getting it's front CV joints/axle checked out tomorrow, and has had other repairs I've forgotten about at this point, shit can break lol.

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ztheday t1_itnorm8 wrote

That's what I was worried about. Yeah, stuff breaks. I just want to make sure. Wife drives the car 95% of the time, and she said earlier, she's never driven over anything or hit any curbs or anything.

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BurkeyTurger t1_itnqe62 wrote

Struts and shocks are both wear items when it boils down to it. Certain actions can hasten their demise but even if you drive perfectly they will eventually give out.

That doesn't mean your's are toast necessarily, but you don't have to hit/run over stuff for them to wear out.

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gdtrfb804 t1_itnnfb1 wrote

What make and model is your vehicle? I think what they did was provide a list of recommended services. Some are required for state inspection, but oil and brake fluid are not.

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ztheday t1_itnof6s wrote

For what I see in the recommended services for 60,000 miles is "replace the spark plugs at the 72-month or 60,000-mile mark" and to "start inspecting the drive belts for signs of wear. Then, continue to inspect them every 15,000 miles." Nothing about all this other stuff.

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ztheday t1_itno15f wrote

Toyota Highlander.

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jw44724 t1_itnrk7a wrote

Dealerships (and many mechanics) will do a “free multi-point inspection” whenever you bring your car in for routine maintenance like oil change or state inspection. This will usually involve them giving you a list of items to fix or maintain either based on their own observation or the factory recommended intervals— this is a completely common occurrence.

You don’t have to do any of that maintenance if you choose not to. Are you sure this isn’t what they are referring to? It’s very possibly they passed your car’s state inspection and are just recommending all the other items.

It’s a common tactic that benefits them several ways: First and foremost, it could keep you safe to fix some of the items. So that serves them so as to remove some liability off of them. Secondly, and most importantly to them, it brings in maintenance revenue that dealerships rely upon. Lastly, it “negs” the value of your car in your mind, softening you up for a spiel about trading in your used car, which they will profit off of handsomely, and convincing you to buy another new car, which they will also profit off of.

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ztheday t1_itnsz8e wrote

It's not a dealership, but I definitely think they might be pushing "recommended service." A lot of what you say makes sense.

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80_PROOF t1_itpf649 wrote

A seven year old vehicle feels brand new to me still. I had a new vehicle that I was getting inspected at the dealership with no issue. The year the warranty ran out the dealership found multiple violations, I can't recall what all they were but they were absurd sounding. Scratched that rejection sticker right off and took it to another shop, passed immediately. This is the way.

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dreww4546 t1_itnndpe wrote

It sounds like they went far afield from the normal inspection.

Gol elsewhere

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ztheday t1_itnnyem wrote

Thanks. That's what I was wondering.

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JollyHistorian t1_itnmu7r wrote

Is that like recommended service for the vehicle? I don’t see how any of that is involved in a state inspection? They don’t check those things to pass an inspection but I could be wrong

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ztheday t1_itnnj4l wrote

I was curious about this. A buddy who knows more than I do told me he didn't think most of this stuff should have been even checked.

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upearlyRVA t1_itnqmiz wrote

Sounds like recommended stuff. Simply say " no thanks just the inspection" and be on your way.

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mc4_life t1_itpgbbv wrote

> Sounds like recommended stuff. Simply say " no thanks just the inspection" and be on your way.

ding ding ding.

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55V35lM t1_ito15ul wrote

I had this happen previously - need to directly ask what service is required to pass inspection as most of these are not. Repair shops lose money on padding inspections (the time it takes is worth more than the inspection fee) so they have a motive to tack on extra items (headlight ‘adjustments’, $75 wiper blades, or just about everything which is what you ended up with).

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mmbenney t1_itnr5bf wrote

Just pick up your car. I’m guessing they will put a rejection sticker on it and then you have 15 days to get it sorted out. I probably wouldn’t tell the new place what the recommended repairs were, just see what they say. (You’d probably do that anyway) even if you need some or all of those repairs, eventually or even soon, it would make me suspicious, too.

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Busy-Statistician483 t1_ito8sne wrote

There's no way that stuff needs replaced on a 7 year old Toyota Highlander unless it was wrecked. Or maybe living at the beach (if that's the case ask to see the rust or damage). My first question to them would be "whose car is this list for?" If they try to tell you it's your car list. Tell them there must be some confusion, none of this is bad on your car. Speak with confidence. If they still insist it's your list then take the car and leave. Then, don't ever go back there.

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m0arpepper t1_itnuhe4 wrote

Highlanders are ridiculously durable. Toyotas are usually the easiest cars to work on too so I’d give these guys the middle finger for all this work at 70k.

I’d definitely decline and take the fail sticker. It’s been years, but I had a very good honest experience with halls in the west end. Boulevard auto is my go to in midlothian. I’m sure you can search and find a lot of other recommendations.

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ztheday t1_itnxjxf wrote

Thanks for the recs. Truly appreciated.

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VirginiaWren t1_itpgane wrote

Honestly just take it to the Toyota dealer- mine does inspections for free I think (and I didn’t even buy it here). Most will get you in same day.

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WontArnett t1_itnwuc1 wrote

They’re full of shit and trying to get one over on you— take it somewhere else.

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KiloLee t1_ito5eu8 wrote

Inspector here: You can definitely go somewhere else, you don't have to justify it all. Tell them to go ahead and put the rejection sticker on, and then go elsewhere as you please. You can take the rejection sticker off before you take it into the next shop to keep the reasons true second opinion, but if it is rejected again, they will not / cannot issue a new rejection sticker, so be prepared for that. You don't have to tell them why it failed or anything, just tell them you weren't an inspection

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80_PROOF t1_itpfjvv wrote

Do you guys hate doing state inspections? I mean does it feel like it takes time away from other projects you're working on and it's only like 20 bucks or whatever it cost nowadays?

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KiloLee t1_itr59ko wrote

I could definitely understand if the flat rate/commission guys didn't like it, but I'm paid hourly, so it doesn't bother me at all. I have plenty of days where I'm just knocking out inspections back to back to back, and I'm getting paid the same as if I was busting knuckles doing other actual work

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80_PROOF t1_itrsdcz wrote

Thanks. One more: if you see a problem, maybe a minor non life safety issue, and you know it's going to be a major pain in the ass to work on it, will that influence weather or not you would fail that vehicle?

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KiloLee t1_itrv4t4 wrote

I can say with certainty that such things do happen, unfortunately. And not even just with inspections

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80_PROOF t1_itrvhk9 wrote

Gotcha. I see the same in construction inspections and figured it is similar across the board.

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sleevieb t1_itnngtg wrote

What kind of car?

Did they say this is what it needs to pass inspection or what it needs to be perfect?

This reads like you hit something on the ride side of the car or ran something over almost. If the axle is broken wtf unless it’s just a boot that can’t be replaced?

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ztheday t1_itnnvyx wrote

It's a Toyota Highlander. No, I haven't been able to have a conversation with them. I called to check on it at 5 pm, and they said they were still putting together the estimate. Then, I got a text shortly before 6, and when I showed up, no one was there to talk to me about it, and the guy in the after-hours couldn't release it.

Yeah, I don't know. My wife drives the car 95% of the time, and she's never mentioned hitting anything.

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longhairedcountryboy t1_itnri33 wrote

That's a lot for a car that new. Suspension parts mostly/

Do you take it 4 wheeling?

Get it muddy and not wash it?

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ztheday t1_itnxraa wrote

Nope. Never offroading. Never muddy. It's a family car.

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longhairedcountryboy t1_itoahf3 wrote

In that case, it's hard for me to believe all that stuff is really so bad it won't pass. Miles are too low and it's too new.

If you had said it's a Kia, that's different.

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gracetw22 t1_itnrjyq wrote

SUVs can wear on suspensions more so that smaller cars if this is your first one. 70k miles is low but some of the rubber components are going to wear on those more with years exposed to elements versus miles being used, so if you were driving a standard 15k miles a year, that’s right around when I expect those items to all need replaced. Not unheard of at all.

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jazli t1_itns6qs wrote

If you're looking for suggestions for a second opinion, I just got 3 state inspections done at Leete Auto on Staples Mill by the train station. Jason was very straightforward and honest, if he saw something he thought might need attention on the vehicle he called right away and told us about it but in no way pressured us to get the work done there, and let me know promptly that it passed inspection. I heard him speaking candidly to other clients in the waiting room, and got the impression that he would be a straight talker and wasn't going to try and pull a fast one on me as a woman bringing a car in, etc. I'll go back to them if/when I need service. Just my 2c. Good luck!

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ztheday t1_itnx83b wrote

Thank you! Appreciate the recommendation.

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JustKatB t1_itnsuhx wrote

You can take it elsewhere and you should!

I just had a shop do my inspection, 11 yo car with zero issues. They took my rear breaks all apart to show me the pads (basically 70% of a break pad change already done at this point) then tried to charge me $280 to put new pads ($35 pads thrown in for free!) on instead of the old ones back on. I declined and they put it back together and gave me it back with a failed sticker. My husband, got the pads and had them changed in 1 hour with no power tools. I took the car back in 4 days later and was in and out in 15 minutes.

Good luck!

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hksjjsads t1_ito0vqc wrote

Used to work for a local Toyota dealership and dealt with my fair share of them, although I'll admit it has been a couple years.

If you're being honest about not abusing the vehicle then this list just doesn't sit right with me. I'd be pretty skeptical of needing both new LCA's, an axle, and a strut on the front without having hit something substantial enough to be noticed. Highlanders are pretty sturdy.

Alignment will always be recommended with suspension work.

Interpreting the VA inspection manual on failing shocks almost isn't worth the hassle. Feel free to look up that section before you head in, because chances are good that they're going to say that it fails when it doesn't.

If it were my car I'd ask to see it up on the lift and have the inspector explain why they failed the components. If they tell you something that sounds silly, it probably is. The inspection is a safety inspection and each failed component should fail because it causes an unsafe condition where they vehicle isn't roadworthy. If it doesn't sit right with you take it elsewhere. They'll put a rejection sticker on it and you're free to take it wherever you want. You'll have to pay the new shop to inspect the vehicle, but there's nothing stopping you from doing it.

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_CaptainCooter_ t1_itpcfma wrote

Former inspector/master tech etc…yeah they’re just trying to cash in on you. These aren’t all required to pass inspection. Brake flush? Gtfo

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pmcrvc t1_itnwjac wrote

I was put in this position a few years ago too. Yes you can take it somewhere else. They will put a “rejection” sticker on and might give you a bunch of warnings but don’t say anything and get your car. When I went to a second place one major thing did actually need to be replaced but the second mechanic showed me and explained in detail. The rest was “recommended” work. Many of these things on your list are “recommended” for 70k but might not specifically be needed. The alarm for me would be they texted you this info right before close, that doesn’t seem like decent service. No, you’re not TA. I’ve been there. Incidentally I took mine in for inspection today and many of these things are not on the list of what’s checked by VA. Based on what you listed, I have an idea of where you might have gone, because many of them were on my list when my car was at 70k. If it’s a local “chain”, I suggest going elsewhere. I started going to All Good Automotive II based on a recommendation and while small, they’ve been honest to me. I hope you get things worked out. Never hurts to get a second opinion for these things.

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ztheday t1_itnxg3t wrote

Thank you. Appreciate the recommendation.

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Alexander703 t1_ito3wur wrote

  • REPLACE REAR SHOCK ASSEMBLY - $600 - you can fail for this. When they start to fail, they tend to leak and make noise when going over bumps.

  • REPLACE BOTH FRONT LOWER CONTROL ARM ASSEMBLY - $1200- you can fail for this if the bushing in the arm are worn and if the ball joint is starting to fail. This is one of those repairs not to ignore if there are signs of the ball joint failing. They sometimes creak when they’re on their way out but they can also just suddenly fail. I need to replace mine as the boot has split on one and is oozing grease out. It can be a pain to do depending on the vehicle. Its easer to replace the control arm with the ball joint pre-pressed into the control arm usually.

  • 4 WHEEL ALIGNMENT - $100 not needed to pass inspection but does help keep your tires from wearing prematurely as well as your suspension components. may be related to other items they’ve recommended. Talk to the mechanic. It’ll need the alignment after suspension work, especially on AWD vehicles.

  • OIL CHANGE - $60 (is this even part of the "safety" inspection) not needed to pass inspection but definitely keep up with your oil changes.

  • BRAKE FLUID FLUSH - $100 not necessary to pass inspection but brake fluid is hygroscopic and does need to be replaced over time.

  • REPLACE RIGHT FRONT AXLE ASSEMBLY - $700 - you can fail for this. Typically the rubber boots gets get torn and fling grease everywhere. Once this happens and if you can catch it in time, you can replace just the boot and repack it with grease, but given that the part is so cheap whole sale on this, you’re better off just replacing it. They also start to click when they start to fail.

  • REPLACE FRONT STRUT ASSEMBLY - $1400 - you can fail for this. Typically when they start to fail, they start leaking fluid and making noise. $1400 seems kinda high if they’re going to be in there messing with the control arms and cv axle. Ask if they’re reusing the coils or dropping in a complete quick strut assembly. The quick strut assemblies are a little more expensive but save on labor costs.

Talk to the mechanic and see what they say. You can just ask what will it take to get it to pass inspection and elect to do the necessary repairs. That CV axle pricing seems whack though especially if they plan on fooling with the control arms. If the place youre going to now for automotive work starts with a ‘C’, then definitely get a second opinion elsewhere.

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JustAnother804Guy t1_ito6av5 wrote

10/10 recommend All Good Automotive for inspections

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Pjtruslow t1_itobp55 wrote

When I go for an inspection and it fails, I go pick it up with the list of things it failed for. Several things on your list are things it simply cannot fail for, so several of these are probably recommended maintenance items, which you can choose to ignore their recommendations. The inspection however is a specific list of things that must be inspected, the list is public and enshrined in law and you can check a lot of it yourself. Stuff like tire tread, lights, horn, parking brake you can check yourself. Beyond that it’s mostly brake pads having enough meat left, no significant play in suspension joints and bushings.

As an example, I am pretty certain a leaking shock does not fail, but a shock that has failed to the point of not properly damping bouncing can. Things to absolutely replace if a shop says so: ball joints. These may be part of a larger part like a control arm. When ball joints let go, bad things happen, where a shock fails slowly and not suddenly.

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Gamegis t1_itoczq7 wrote

Was this Virginia Automotive Service by chance? I went there recently and also have nearly an identical list as you. Got a 2nd and even 3rd opinion elsewhere and none of it was needed.

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adam0928 t1_itosirv wrote

Take your car and leave. Go to another shop. That's how it works.

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njbrews t1_itnwdyg wrote

What place was this?

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jeb_hoge t1_itnxwnw wrote

Get a second opinion but be ready for it to concur. My wife never picked up on suspension/steering issues that I could feel or hear. The four-wheel alignment is always associated with replacement of struts or control arms. On a state inspection, if you've got blown/leaking struts, they'd probably fail, and the control arms might fail if there are bushings that are worn to the point of looseness.

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Hiltson87 t1_itnz8uc wrote

You can also have the State Police come out to redo the inspection on site. You'll know real fast whether or not the inspector is lying.

Oil change, brake fluid and the alignment are definitely not part of the inspection.

Some of this stuff is also easy to replace on your own. Like rear shocks on most vehicles are just a matter of taking out two bolts, taking the old shock out, putting the new shock in, and putting the two bolts back in.

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Chickenmoons t1_itnzrao wrote

When I’ve had experiences like this I’ve asked them to show and explain to me each problem they hit me for and explain/justify it.

If you think they’re exaggerating the state police manage the inspection program and you can call them.

It used to be they would send an officer to perform the inspection themselves and if there are discrepancies the person doing the inspection is in big trouble. I imagine it’s not so different now. They don’t fuck around.

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fl_man_in_rva t1_ito03n3 wrote

As others have recommended, find a new shop. One of my cars has over 300k miles and I'm just now getting to suspension components. Lower control arms and a motor mount last inspection. They were all original. I'm pretty sure all struts need to be replaced, but nobody has said anything about them, yet.

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hi_revver t1_ito49xy wrote

Definitely get a second opinion. Like has been said all except oil and brake fluid flush are inspection items. If the shocks/struts leak they don't pass. If there is play in the ball joints or cracks in the bushings (included in the control arms) they don't pass. If the axle is leaking or is making noise it will not pass. The prices seem to be out of whack to me but I've been out of the retail game for awhile. Also, I know you keep saying that your wife never hits anything and it's only a family hauler but all of this stuff can go bad from just normal wear and tear. Our roads suck so keep that in mind.

All that said though I would be surprised if a 7 yo 70K highlander needed all that. Also, I would recommend talking to the actual service advisor and/or tech before jumping to too many conclusions. Be pointed and ask if all of this is required for inspection. If they say yes pick it up and take it for another opinion. At the very least take your business elsewhere just because they tried to lump in an oil change and brake fluid flush into an inspection. However, they may at that point say it needs X for inspection and the rest you can expect to do for the next inspection or whatever. I used to do that for my customers so they would be able to plan a bit and be informed. I would never just drop an estimate like that though without explanation. I'm trying to give them the benefit of the doubt because it is a tough industry. But, the fact remains that some shops use state inspection as a license to replace whatever the hell they want and that sucks. Up to you to determine whether that is the case here or not. Let them explain themselves first if they can.

Sorry for the long-winded response. Just trying to help and add perspective from the professional side.

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ztheday t1_ito90ev wrote

Thank you. I appreciate your thoughtful and well-reasoned response. I will talk to them in the morning to see if there is real justification for this. Thanks!

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oldguy_on_the_wire t1_itohvhl wrote

These folks seem intent on bending you over the barrel.

None of these pricey repairs are things that happen 'immediately' without an incident. Signs of the impending problems appear before the problem manifests. Why have these people that you visit regularly not seen these signs and mentioned them to you?

Take your car elsewhere. If they reject it, no problem. Take it elsewhere. If there really are problems that need be addressed then you can take care of them.

Anecdotally I drive a 2016 Honda HRV with 60,000 miles on it. The only work on your list that has been done to it is an oil change and a brake fluid change. Because both of those were called for by the car's maintenance schedule. Shucks, Nelliebeth still has her original shoes and is going to pass inspection this spring with them.

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Cunbundle t1_itp7qf9 wrote

They are required to show you the parts that failed inspection in the presence of a state police officer should you ask. See what they say to that.

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mac1022 t1_itphg84 wrote

Your car must be driving terribly to need all that in the front end or they are lying to you. I am not sure about all of it, but I know it is definitely not required to fix your front alignment or flush brake fluid for state inspection. If you can't find a mechanic you can always go to the dealership they less likely to lie to you but their labor prices are too high. So you could get it looked at there then call around for quotes if it does fail. And then take it back to dealership for reinspection which is only $5 I think and they can only inspect the parts that failed. My 99 Camry with 300k miles passes even at the end of its life.

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