[Help] Please advise on how to safely remove an old garage door spring (existing guides are all for new styles of torsion spring)

Submitted by moron_that_later t3_yfsddp in DIY

I would like to remove the side springs from my swinging garage door: https://imgur.com/a/G8ZAABz

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I have done research on how to do this, as I understand it is a dangerous procedure, but I would like to avoid paying the 250 USD to have it removed if (big if) I can do it myself safely. I have experience with DIY projects, just not with springs.

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Does anyone have links to guides or can they advise on this specific type of mechanism? Thanks kindly in advance.

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FindTheRemnant t1_iu53y0g wrote

You can't buy a new eye or hand for $250

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MegBundy t1_iu5oou4 wrote

Someone I knew was impaled in the heart by a garage door spring. Your life is worth the cost of hiring a professional.

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jeffersonairmattress t1_iu5r4ee wrote

They were likely also up a ladder, winding the torsion spool when a lever let go, sending the second lever into their chest. A surprisingly common injury.

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HammerTim81 t1_iu60ikb wrote

When you start scrambling up the ladder of success, make sure it’s leaning against the right wall

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fuddykrueger t1_iu7cdoa wrote

Our garage door opener’s spring broke/detached and flew across the garage with a huge bang out of the blue. We initially had no idea what had caused the noise. It has happened twice. Luckily we were in the house both times. Scary.

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Hodgkisl t1_iu8jklg wrote

If you have extension springs as OP does they should have safety cables ran through them so they can not launch, if yours have no such cables add some ASAP

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fuddykrueger t1_iu8jxsa wrote

Right, ours don’t look like OP’s so we must have the other type (torsion?).

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Hodgkisl t1_iu8k0pz wrote

Are they above the door opening, parallel to the door?

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fuddykrueger t1_iu8lse2 wrote

They run along the ceiling perpendicular (I suppose) to the doors (2-door garage). When they broke the (very) loud noise was them smacking against the metal garage door.

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Hodgkisl t1_iu8lv1r wrote

So in line with the tracks?

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fuddykrueger t1_iu8muxe wrote

Yes. That’s the better way to describe it. Lol

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Hodgkisl t1_iu8rx76 wrote

Those would be extension style springs then similar to OP, there are different layouts and sizes of spring. You should insider them for safety cables / ropes, they should go through the middle of the spring and be secured at both ends somewhere beyond the spring.

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fuddykrueger t1_iu8zxp8 wrote

Okay we always hire a professional to replace the springs. My son tried once and that is when the spring popped the second time a few weeks later.

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MCClapYoHandz t1_iu6l806 wrote

It’s an extension spring. And you can clearly see in the picture that it’s not even under any tension. Leave it to redditors to hear a catchphrase about garage door springs and repeat it any time the topic comes up, while having no idea what they’re talking about.

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WardStradlater t1_iu4zutj wrote

That’s not a torsion spring it’s an extension spring, which might be why you’re having trouble finding anything by searching. Try searching side extension spring replacement videos. Anyway, they are honestly easier in my opinion than the newer torsion springs that are overhead. Just open the garage all the way (this ensures the least amount of tension is on the spring) then you can use a ladder if you have one that’s big enough, or a stack of sturdy objects to support the door in case it moves at all to prevent it from closing down on you, then once that’s done remove that circle pin, slide the flat safety bar off and use gloves to hold the spring and slide that chain link off the post and then you can disassemble everything without any tension.

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danauns t1_iu5361i wrote

This.

Extension springs aren't really that dangerous. The way they load/unload is linear and predictable. Take precaution of course, and be careful, but these aren't a big deal to work on or maintain by an average DIYer.

Torsion springs are EXTREMELY dangerous. They fail in unpredictable ways and have a lot of potential energy wound up in them. Danger bay.

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moron_that_later OP t1_iu53m4j wrote

That makes a lot of sense. Here is the spring, btw, which I was able to find with the help of this distinction: https://www.thelumberyard.com/SPRING-EXTENSION-BLACK-32IN-p/5658042.htm

So basically whereas a torsion spring is always already under tension, and thus has a ton of potential energy stored up, an extension spring is not under tension until it is extended (like a trampoline), is that right?

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IronSlanginRed t1_iu5b135 wrote

Yup. These kind don't have tension on them unless they are extended. So all the way up there's usually a slack spot.

TBH when i removed mine i barely had to pull on it to unhook the S-hook. All the way open and the spring was pretty much fully closed and had next to no tension. I just wore gloves so i wouldn't pinch my hand. These are waaaaay different than torsion springs.

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asad137 t1_iu5lbt5 wrote

>Torsion springs are EXTREMELY dangerous. They fail in unpredictable ways and have a lot of potential energy wound up in them.

While this is true, they are also trapped by the rod passing through the center. So the only way to get a piece flying off is if less than a 360-degree arc of the spring breaks off.

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jeffersonairmattress t1_iu5tbgc wrote

It's the levers you use to wind the springs or the wrench you use to tighten the 2-3 locking setscrews that cause the most common injuries. The spring is wound on its shaft by a capstan with radial holes and you wind it by putting two levers in the holes- one to hold it and one to advance it. if the capstan's light aluminum casting breaks or your lever slips, the next one comes around and takes out your head or impales you- the same thing can happen if a lever slips while you are locking the bolts and the wrench you are using takes your hand off or winds up inside you. All compounded by the fact that this typically happens to a DIY amateur standing on a ladder.

I've seen the springs unwind unexpectedly a few times but I've only seen two springs break and one of them just violently unwound on the shaft as you suggested but the other one threw a section of itself through 2 layers of drywall 60 feet away. I'll never touch another one.

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DudebuD16 t1_iu8q9en wrote

That's why you use locking pliers and the rod you use to wind the spring to hold it in place when tightening anything.

And when winding the spring, keep your body to one side(the non spring side) to avoid injury.

But you are right about the spring exploding, it's happened before(not to me)

Source: garage door installer

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egus t1_iu559sq wrote

A pair of vice grips on the track will hold the door if he doesn't have a long enough pipe or ladder

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TubbyBeefpile t1_iu6vzw6 wrote

C clamps work too if your buddy borrowed your good vice grips and never gave them back. Prolly not sure why you call him buddy anymore.. but hey, there ya go.

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joshkpoetry t1_iu8nnbf wrote

Good tip, but I have several pairs of the same vise grips because the buddy I loan them to is myself.

I eventually find them, but it has turned out pretty useful to have a few pairs distributed around the place.

One pair lives by the lawnmower gas can and exists mainly to adjust the mower deck height, for example.

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erogbass t1_iu9h0ru wrote

Lol how destroyed are the bolts for the height adjustment after years of using vice grips on them?

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joshkpoetry t1_iua5zau wrote

They're a little rough, lol.

Not that bad--they're more like spring-loaded pins. They had plastic hook-shaped handles to make pulling them out of height selection holes, but most of those hooks have broken off.

So I'm not using the vise grips to turn nuts/bolts. Just for grip while pulling.

Still, they're a little chewed up, lol.

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stanolshefski t1_iu8teta wrote

My dad used to use C clamps and Vice Grips as a backup garage door lock when we went on vacation.

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jeffersonairmattress t1_iu5rtni wrote

Tracks are for rollup or torsion spring doors- tilters and floders use pivots counterbalanced by tension springs.

You have the door up, you arrange a rope each side taking the load each spring holds and you use a pulley at each rope so you can safely raise and lower the door and hold it anywhere you want with the ropes.

With the door secured by ropes you can now remove the redundant and relaxed springs. Usually a clip, cotter or hitch pin pulled to remove a pin or link and then the spring hangs free. Not dangerous as long as there is no load on the springs as they store no potential energy.

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Great68 t1_iu6kqnx wrote

>Tracks are for rollup or torsion spring doors- tilters and floders use pivots counterbalanced by tension springs.

Nope, My garage door is on tracks and uses tension springs.

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egus t1_iu5s9ed wrote

That must be a really old way of doing it.

I've replaced several of these with the type you wind across the header and they still had tracks and rollers down the sides.

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Hodgkisl t1_iu8jbkz wrote

Roll up doors can use either type of spring, newer roll up doors which weigh more typically have torsion springs as they last longer and are considered safer during use, though more dangerous to instal.

I Have an original 1972 wood roll up with tension springs.

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singlejeff t1_iu5oxrx wrote

There was no track on our door that had springs like this

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egus t1_iu5rhe7 wrote

Yes there is. There are rollers on the sides of the panels. The rollers are contained in a tracked upright vertical and horizontal piece.

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singlejeff t1_iu5sjvc wrote

Our’s was what I think of as a single throw door, one giant panel. I grew up with it don’t tell me there were tracks.

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egus t1_iu5t2ku wrote

I believe you, I've just never seen one like that.

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moron_that_later OP t1_iu51sw5 wrote

Super helpful, that makes a lot of sense

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Hodgkisl t1_iu8jr3l wrote

Looking at your picture, when you replace them run a safety rope or cable through them. When extension springs break they can launch violently. Extension springs are safer for the installer but more dangerous in use if there’s no safety cable.

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ntyperteasy t1_iu90zge wrote

This. It's an excellent summary. The essence is to remove it while the door is fully open and the spring is relaxed, then use a pair of 2x4's (one on each side) or step ladder as a safety to keep the door from crashing down.

The current best- practice is to run a steel cable through the center of the spring in case it breaks. If yours doesn't have that, do it to both sides while you are doing this. I am not talking about the normal tension cable that lifts the garage door - it is an extra cable going through the center of the spring that remains slack, and is intended to keep the parts of the spring from flying away if the spring breaks. https://www.amazon.com/scottchen-PRO-Extension-Springs-Galvanized/dp/B09JKDDRHT

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Quattuor t1_iu9elqn wrote

This is correct. OP the springs are usually color coded for stiffness and you need to get correct spring to have the garage door properly balanced.

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InigoMontoya1985 t1_iu5b97v wrote

As long as you have the door fully opened and supported with the tension removed from the springs, there's no danger. Torsion springs, on the other hand, are always pre-loaded and dangerous.

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SometimesSweaty t1_iu5dn3g wrote

This. If it’s those springs on the side of the door, just open the garage door and there should be no tension on the spring and you should easily be able to replace it. Just measure each spring when you do because if you go to Home Depot there’s a whole bunch of them all with similar lengths.

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tater56x t1_iu5bpxu wrote

Last year I replaced my 30-some yo springs after one broke. I got lucky finding small stickers on the sides of the door that identified the brand and model, and the local installer who is still in business. I was able to purchase replacements. You will need to know the approximate weight of the door to get the correct springs. I was surprised how heavy the door was. But replacing them was not technically difficult. I just took plenty of photos and sketched the frame and cable before starting. I also purchased replacement cables just as a preventive maintenance item.

As a safety measure I placed a heavy step ladder under the door, and used several C-clamps in the tracks to keep the door up. With my door the springs are not under tension when the door is fully open.

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ScootchOva t1_iu54bmf wrote

If there's one thing I've learned while in Reddit it's that these springs can kill you. Perhaps that's why you ask? Sorry this isn't a helpful comment to your cause, just an observation.

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moron_that_later OP t1_iu54sor wrote

No I appreciate the observation, thanks. From what I have learned in this thread though, there is an important distinction between torsion springs (essentially bombs that can shred you to pieces due to stored up energy) and extension springs (more like a trampoline -- no stored up energy until you extend them). This spring is the latter.

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ScootchOva t1_iu569bl wrote

Got it. So more nuance to this then I knew coming into this thread. So now at least, the next time someone posts a thread in what can kill you that people don't know about and garage doors are added to the thread I can add some of what we've learned here, if someone else doesn't beat me to it.

I appreciate your flexibility and patience with my replies. Best of luck to you!

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tuckedfexas t1_iu4y8nr wrote

Those you should just be able to pull out, like a trampoline spring. Doesn’t look like there’s much tension. If they’re too tight you could use a ratchet strap anchored to something like a truck hitch to expand them and give you some room. The dangerous springs are the long ones up too that have a tremendous amount of potential energy and shouldn’t be messed with by most people. The ones in the pictures don’t look like much of a danger to me, I could be wrong though

Looking again I’m pretty sure those are the exact same springs as trampolines, mostly harmless just easy to pinch yourself. The hardware suggests they were definitely installed diy

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moron_that_later OP t1_iu4zlps wrote

Thanks, I really appreciate that. I'll wait to see what else comes in but I tend to agree with you. It doesn't feel like the springs are helping much to lift and lower the door.

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tuckedfexas t1_iu52ci7 wrote

Of course, always smart to get more eyes on something, especially when you have potential forces involved. Yea I couldn’t quite tell from the pictures but I’m not sure how they’d even be helping anything. They don’t look like they travel enough to lift or close it lol. Most important skill for a diy/handyman to have in their pocket is knowing their limits. Lord knows I use it often!

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WardStradlater t1_iu503p7 wrote

As someone who has had to deal with a lot of older garage doors in my youth, this is definitely makeshift and not assembled correctly hahaha. This is the result of someone’s spouse nagging them for 6 months to fix it and drunkenly coming up with a solution on a Saturday night.

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moron_that_later OP t1_iu51rew wrote

haha that sounds very likely. the whole garage is full of these "makeshift solutions." but let's be honest, someone's going to be posting the same stuff about my hackjobs on some forum 50 years from now..

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tuckedfexas t1_iu51v0d wrote

Hard to see based on the pictures but I’m not even sure what the springs would be doing. Doesn’t look like they have enough travel to assist with the door lifting lol

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moron_that_later OP t1_iu53xpe wrote

Lol totally agree. Someone was very proud of their weekend project though I'm sure

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anonymous_jme t1_iu5j0vs wrote

Tension is off the external spring when the door is open on these slab doors. When these things break, they shoot off. Newerish ones ran a wire through the middle as a safety to catch flying spring parts. Usually back a truck in the hole with the door open. Starting unhooking everything so can drop the door on top of the ladder rack & drive it out. Heavy doors.

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heidimark t1_iu5dri8 wrote

You can absolutely do this yourself. For all of the people saying these will kill you, they are referring to torsion springs, which the ones in your photo are not. Vice grips, prybars, etc. can be your friend in releasing tension of the springs enough to remove the clip from that bottom bracket. The rest is simply unscrewing the mounts.

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buildyourown t1_iu5h5w7 wrote

These aren't dangerous at all. Raise the door and the spring should be slack

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Igivenotoneshit t1_iu5blax wrote

When the door is open, does the spring go almost slack? Mine does and that would make it pretty safe to remove. A few more pictures of the complete setup would help.

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roadfood t1_iu524tn wrote

When you say 'remove' are you planning on replacing them? That style door is dangerous to open/close without some sort of assist.

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moron_that_later OP t1_iu52st2 wrote

No I'm going to replace with hinged barn doors, this is going to become my workshop. Totally agree on these doors

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roadfood t1_iu67hru wrote

In that case just wedge a 2x4 under the bottom edge to hold it open at full swing, that should take all tension off the spring and you can just unhook the chain. Have a friend around to help you lower the door back down so you can take them off.

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tribalien93 t1_iu61ym6 wrote

Tie rope to the lowest chain link and slowly pull until the s hook is released. Then slowly release the tension on the rope.

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Standard_Confusion99 t1_iu6ii7c wrote

That's an extension spring, really not that dangerous. A torsion spring I would leave alone.

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itwillmakesenselater t1_iu6krr0 wrote

My fellow redditor, DO. NOT. DIY.

Even side springs carry huge energy. This is not a "let's see how this goes" situation.

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navigationallyaided t1_iu6rmxu wrote

Old one piece shin buster door? Open the door. Brace(and nail) underneath it with a few 2x4s on the lower and upper stiles of the door. You can now remove the springs from the hardware. Take off the ring and the hardware can be undone. Reverse the steps with the new springs, take off the 2x4s, close the door and adjust the hardware if needed.

Holmes brand springs are still around but made in China vs. the old made in LA ones. There’s a part number stamped in the ends. It’s these guys here: https://idcspring.com/garage-door-springs/holmes-one-piece-springs/

Home Depot or Lowe’s may have them but your local Ace or True Value might be a better bet.

this guide should be helpful.

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moron_that_later OP t1_iu7udp6 wrote

Thanks buddy! I’m actually thinking I’ll replace the door entirely with something safer

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navigationallyaided t1_iu7vb5o wrote

One-piece doors have safer springs, but also need more upkeep, and the hardware is becoming more difficult to buy. And screw-drive garage door openers are harder to find outside of the orange/blue boxes - Genie is seen as junk by LiftMaster and Sommer dealers but they’re the only one making screw-drive as Chamberlain(LiftMaster and Craftsman) discontinued screw-drive. A screw-drive opener is the only opener that can reliably open and close a one-piece wood door.

Stick to Amarr, Clopay or CHI for a new door. Avoid Overhead Door brand, since they use proprietary hardware(hinges) or Wayne Dalton due to their spring system.

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paladin_20 t1_iu6t6qh wrote

Use a 4x8 sheet of 1/2" OSB as a shield, and take a pair of bolt cutters to that S hook, if you want a story to tell the grandkids.

Seriously though, torsion springs are seriously no joke. I've seen installers over tighten them to the point of being ripped off of a ladder. I'd personally file this under the same folder that the list of reasons I don't wear my wedding ring to work is in: it's just not worth the risk of bodily harm. DIY is a nice concept to save money, but some corners should not be cut. Hire an actual garage door company to take them out, it's worth the extra expense, if only so you can hurt yourself DIYing something else.

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rhinoclaus t1_iu777tc wrote

Just remove it when it is not extended (I’m talking about the long springs that are on each rail of the door NOT the one mounted on the wall of the garage over the door). Remember it balances the weight of the door. So they will be “unloaded” when the door is raised - and once you take the springs off the ~300lb door will have no resistance. I’d highly recommend blocking it up so it cant be closed while you work. It could damage your door, opener or hurt anyone under it. Make sure you properly replace the safety wires as when the springs fail, they do so in a dramatic way and those wires prevent them from falling.

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gustafsc t1_iu9cd46 wrote

If you have to ask this question, you need to call a pro. Better to spend $250 versus losing an eye or worse.

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Mephisto221 t1_iu54pns wrote

I’d try using a ratcheting “come-along”?

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Jbpsmd t1_iu5pqc4 wrote

Call a garage guy

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Abrahms_4 t1_iu5sozf wrote

You pay a pro, accept the loss of money and move on.

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randomkeystrike t1_iu6euh9 wrote

There is no way I’d mess with this. None.

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tyeh26 t1_iu6ewsi wrote

Garage springs should be the lichtenberg wood burning of /r/diy.

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Even_Land7837 t1_iu6gou5 wrote

Angle grinder but just remember to squint for safety 👍

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Wildweed t1_iu6hvto wrote

A hand winch attached to that chain and the tow hitch of a vehicle will ease that sucker right off, and then allow you to back off the tension safely by backing up the vehicle. Your in the vehicle so no personal hazard.

edit: commonly called a come along tool.

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bmanley620 t1_iu6j2be wrote

Get a professional. I’ve read this can be a very dangerous thing to do on your own

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tightlinesma t1_iu6k64h wrote

Hire a professional, lot of tension in that spring

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Violorian t1_iu6li26 wrote

The last time I approached this problem I called the company that installed the door, and they came out and fixed it better than new. One of the simplest home fixes ever.

I did a similar thing with a giant eucalyptus tree that needed to be removed.

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swissarmychainsaw t1_iu6vnq5 wrote

Get some beers and invite your neighbor Bob over to "give you a hand" with this extortion spring.

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SunLover80 t1_iu70tup wrote

Hire it done. I almost broke my arm trying to do one myself.

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anonymousolderguy t1_iu76dd5 wrote

There is no safe way. Call the guys who do it all day every day

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Long-Advertising-743 t1_iu77ugk wrote

This setup is very poor. The screws that are in the wood should be through bolts from side to side with grade 8 steel, flat washers and self-locking grower nuts. It is VERY DANGEROUS, not when it is without tension, obviously, but when it exerts force.

Assembly requires no more care than having the correct tools. A system with a tourniquet or threaded rod could help you, it is a matter of how your ingenuity helps you. That they charge you 250 for that is a real robbery, but a cosmetic surgery or losing all your teeth or an eye or both because a metal piece jumps at high speed I think it's more expensive.

Anyway, that is an extension spring, so being in the position shown in the photo should not be exerting force, it would be enough to unhook it by pulling a couple of inches to perform the task you want, Wear protection, thick leather gloves and tools that are of quality and do not slip. You should have help, if possible from someone with enough physical strength to keep the necessary tension while you remove or move the hook. BEWARE, better safe than sorry. Greetings from Argentina

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squaredistrict2213 t1_iu7o8mi wrote

Those springs are very easy and safe to do. When the door is open, there’s no tension. I did mine for $18 (at Home Depot). I don’t have any tips for you, but you can do it!

Wait, I’ve got one tip. Do both of them. Mine broke, so I had to replace one, but I was advised to replace them both at the same time.

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AmbeeGaming t1_iu7ytwl wrote

Aren’t springs of the DIY donts

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Ceiling_tile t1_iu5n8ki wrote

Call in a professional. If that snaps back, you can die

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sfdragonboy t1_iu56dgn wrote

I know you want to do it yourself but this not something to mess with. The cables as part of my automatic garage door opener system somehow got tangled. I had awhile ago had the spring professionally replaced. Anyways, I couldn't close the door myself so my neighbor helped me figure it out. We unhooked the cables to free the door. My god, we were surprised how heavy a wooden garage door can be (esp with gravity aiding it). Even though my neighbor was grasping by the emergency cable/latch and I trying to slow it down (no handles on door though) it came crashing down with a big thud. Luckily no one was under that door. Please, just have a pro take care of it.

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moron_that_later OP t1_iu56ocf wrote

Yikes! Thanks for the perspective I’ll definitely consider this. Glad you and your neighbor were ok bud

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Kikithekoala t1_iu500tu wrote

Do not do your own garage door repair, it is extremely dangerous and not worth the risk. Springs are extremely dangerous, it’s worth hiring someone.

Not worth it

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moron_that_later OP t1_iu536i8 wrote

Thanks, I appreciate that perspective and see where you're coming from.

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5kyl3r t1_iu5kson wrote

the problem is, no matter how safely you do this, it can break randomly and smash your face in and disfigure you. these break all the time randomly, and usually leave a trail of destruction. if that happens while you're up on the ladder, it's possibly game over for you. if you hire someone, and it happens to them, well it's their job, they're likely taking extra precautions for this event, and worst case, they have insurance, and your face will still be intact. I think for dangerous things like this, it's better to let the pros do it

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kingfarvito t1_iu73ju0 wrote

Yall gotta stop taking things you don't know anything about and just speaking very confidently.about them for the sake of being right.

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5kyl3r t1_iu75dik wrote

i'm stating facts. my friend had his break and it bent one of the tracks and punched a hole in his wall. those tracks are really rigid and it bent that crap like it was paper. just about the same result when it happened to my brother's garage door.

now if there's a way to remove it without tension, that would probably be worth DIY'ing, but i don't know enough about them to say without looking at some. even then, garage doors are pretty heavy. my last house had doors with fancy wooden fascia to meet hoa standards and with insulation added, the box store openers couldn't open it. when the garage dude was installing the new setup, he told me to try to lift the door. legit would barely move. if you remove with door at highest point to remove tension, or as much as possible, now you have a door elevated without assistance.

pay the pros is not bad advice when safely is a concern. if a pro (assuming you are based on this comment?) disagree, post your credentials and why you think they should try it

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kingfarvito t1_iu8jxd6 wrote

I'm not a pro. But I am pretty sure you're thinking of a torsion spring, which ops door doesn't have. On ops style door the springs are to the sides and are completely slack when the door is up. It's 2 completely different systems. One is very dangerous, the other you would have to actively try to get hurt by and even then it would be minor.

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5kyl3r t1_iu9dznf wrote

ah i can actually see the photo now. the only dangerous part then would be the weight of the door and risk of it slamming down; so if you secure it so it can't move while you replace it, i think it's a no-brainer. though i wonder why OP is asking since just looking at it should be fairly obvious how straightforward it should be

1