Building a work bench: wood screws or lag bolts?

Submitted by CaptInsane t3_zynyn7 in DIY

I want to build a somewhat basic but still sturdy work bench. Most of the things I build I use wood screws (really deck screws), but the majority of what I've built are garden boxes. My dad helped me build a firewood shed that we used deck screws on, but being an engineer he knew how to modify those plans so the bulk of the roof weight was sent into the base of the shed and not resting on the screws.

This is my first on my own project that needs more precision and strength than I've ever done before. I've made work benches with my dad as a kid, but that's been like 15+ years (we don't live close now). So for longevity and strength should I use lag bolts instead of wood screws? And if I'm using bolts, how do I ensure I don't run them into each other?

Oh and this is for attaching the legs to the frame ends that will hold a low shelf and then the frame that will hold the bench top. Legs will be 4x4s and 2x4s for the frame. I'm assuming the middle supports can be toe screwed

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rocketPhotos t1_j26wkm7 wrote

Either, Carriage bolts Edit. Also use washers to keep the nuts from digging into the wood

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CaptInsane OP t1_j26y1id wrote

I know this is probably a dumb question but when I install them at a corner how do I keep them from running into each other

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KruiserIV t1_j273340 wrote

Deck screws lack the strength you need. Use galvanized bolts or screws.

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eagerpanda t1_j28s23m wrote

Galvanized has to do with rust protection. Structural screws is what you want

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LilacYak t1_j29d6eq wrote

They never said how many deck screws…

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erikwarm t1_j2899b3 wrote

Specifically 3xD washers, not the regular smaller sizes

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carltrushell t1_j26yo0j wrote

Every serious diy'er knows dry wall screws are the way to go 🤣

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becelav t1_j28jp9d wrote

There’s specific screws for certain jobs? I just use the general use screws.

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Dr_Wh00ves t1_j28woyo wrote

If it is structural you probably shouldn't use drywall screws, especially in an area that might get wet. They may be the cheapest but they are also very brittle and prone to corrosion. That means that they are prone to snapping if there is a lateral force applied to them, and they will rust through after a couple of years of being exposed to the elements. For non-structural, interior, applications I have had fine luck with them though.

That said I usually prefer to use coated construction screws for everything. A youtube channel called project farm, highly recommended btw, tested all the screw varieties and found that the cheaper construction screws actually outperformed the more expensive specialty screws in almost every test. They aren't that much more expensive than drywall screws either.

Link to the video in question if you are interested.

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becelav t1_j29znly wrote

I’ll definitely check that out

I’m new to woodworking but I mostly make shelves and plant stands. But have made dog houses using the non-structural ones as well. I may have to go back and check them out.

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GObutton t1_j2a98xw wrote

Hey, I received professional training... In a scene shop...

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fairmont423 t1_j27dyxi wrote

My first workbench (built when I was 14) had legs made from two 2x4s laminated with standard wood glue, a simple 2x4 frame, and a 1/2” oak ply top (which I have replaced one time). I’ve moved it through three shops over the last 17 years and it is still serving me well despite an unfair amount of abuse. The fasteners were deck screws.

The last bench I built had real 4x4s (nominal) with 2 sheets of 1/2” oak ply as a top. I built it with a combination of lag bolts, deck screws, and more than one tube of PL Premium construction adhesive. I’m fairly sure I could drop a truck on it.

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thekingofcrash7 t1_j290l5k wrote

4x4s and an inch of oak ply holy shit that must weigh 300 lbs and yes i bet it could hold a tank

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Montecristo905 t1_j27pfya wrote

Deck screws are perfect. Carriage bolts are overkill.

Here’s a popular basic workbench: https://www.eaa.org/eaa/aircraft-building/builderresources/while-youre-building/building-articles/tools-and-workshop/worktables

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cybertoothlion t1_j28mxf0 wrote

I totally agree. Anything you build shouldnt rely on the strength of the hardware that much anyway.

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hardknox_ t1_j2b71z5 wrote

To be fair they constantly mention wood glue throughout those instructions. One without the other may not work half so well.

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hazpat t1_j2919qj wrote

Screws become loose and can't be tightened. Bolts can always be tightened.

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Montecristo905 t1_j2952bh wrote

they don't come loose. this is not an issue at all.

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hazpat t1_j2969u9 wrote

You think a wooden work bench is going to stay solid? Lol The wood flexes and the joints get loose. Bolts can be tightened indefinately, screws eventually strip the wood.

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Montecristo905 t1_j2ae856 wrote

yes, the workbench will stay solid. Have you ever built or used a wood workbench?

For the workbench I provided a link to, I can thrown hundreds of pounds on it, lawnmowers, snowblowers, compressors, pressure washers, me walking on it and using it as a step or ladder, and there is no give or loosening of screws.

only time I've used lag bolts was for folding legs on one of my workbenches, so just 1 lag bolt in each corner. Still rest of workbench was all wood screws.

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Carapute t1_j2berm9 wrote

We miss some context about the environment the bench is going to be used in tho. Depending on humidity and room temperatures you might want to protect the wood better and also account that ultimately, it will degrade. If its an always 20 degrees room with no fluctuation in weather condition, I'd follow your advice. If its a somewhat badly isolated garage or something, that the wood goes from 40 to - 20 celcius throughout the year and goes from super dry to wet to dry again then super wet etc.. I'd advise to invest more unless you want to build a workbench every 5 years.

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MeshColour t1_j2alttj wrote

Have you looked at modern construction or deck screws lately?

Many have two thread pitches (to help pull layers together and resist unscrewing). Many also have other ridges and wavy shapes to also resist unscrewing

And steel quality has really improved in the last few decades, cheap steel is quite a bit stronger now

Project Farm on YouTube tested various types of screws, and you do get what you pay for to a good degree

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5degreenegativerake t1_j270iim wrote

Ledger lok or head lok or power lag type screws give you the ease of a deck screw with the strength of a lag bolt.

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CaptInsane OP t1_j271n4p wrote

Oh nice. I've never heard of those before but I'll look for them. Thanks!

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mashupbabylon t1_j26yxoa wrote

Unless you plan on putting huge amounts of weight and stress on the work bench, screws will be fine. I have a couple benches made with 2x4s and screws and they have held up fine for years. You could likely get a free plan from Anawhite.com or from some YouTuber. That way you leave the guess work and doubts behind. Good luck and remember to have fun!

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CaptInsane OP t1_j26zl06 wrote

Probably the bulk of the weight would be my fat ass to be honest. But thanks for the suggestion. I forgot about looking into a YouTuber like Mattias Wendel

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nolotusnote t1_j271vtf wrote

There's a bit of gold in the comment above.

anawhite.com is a goldmine.

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lordicarus t1_j27qda8 wrote

I built a work bench that is 8' long with 2x4s and 1/2" ply on top. It's just 12" on center 2x4 across the top (edit for clarity, the bench is 24" deep so there are 3x 2x4s for the top and bottom surfaces), same thing for a shelf on the bottom, with 2x4s for the legs cut flush with the bottom of the shelf, with caster wheels mounted to the bottom. It's incredibly sturdy and has had nearly 500lbs of stuff on it multiple times.

  • 9x 2x4s
  • 4x wheels (2x were locking)
  • 1x 1/2" plywood sheet
  • 60x 2.5" deck screws
  • 16x 1.5" screws for the wheels

Took about 1.5 hours to build.

Unless you're looking to store bags of concrete on it, lags would be way overkill.

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CrazyLlama71 t1_j27iiw4 wrote

Yup. My current work bench is 2x4s and a free solid core door (trimmed down) screwed together with 2 1/2” galvanized screws. It’s 14 years old now and just as solid as day one. In matter of fact, this is the 3rd home for the door as a work bench. Prior to this location it was at the last as a work bench for 8 years, I flipped it over for its new location.

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boulderbuford t1_j27pl4w wrote

That's a quick & easy solution that can work fine for very light-duty workbenches used for crafts, electrical work, and power tools.

But not for hand tools. If the OP is planning to use hand tools the racking from that effort will loosen up deck screws very quickly.

Also, I've seen some ana white projects that didn't take into account seasonal wood expansion. So, I'd probably look for a quick & easy solution from fine woodworking or some other more reputable source.

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rdmille t1_j282dxp wrote

New Yankee Workshop has video and plans for a workbench, along with Norm's commentary about what to use, where, and why (IIRC, it was 20 years ago I built mine).

If you build one, there might be a mistake in the measurements for cutting the notches in the feet. Or maybe it was mine.

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Waltzing_With_Bears t1_j279ydm wrote

Theres a good Stumpy Nubs video about making a woodworming bench, Id take a look at that for some ideas

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_genepool_ t1_j26yw60 wrote

Another vote for carriage bolts.

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OriginalSuggestion87 t1_j27u0dk wrote

Absolutely. As you accumulate wear, tear, and wood movement, carriage bolts will let you tighten and adjust to keep everything plumb, straight, level, and square.

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MoreCoffee729 t1_j27q1cp wrote

I just built a workbench using these cross-dowel bolts. They work great.

https://www.rockler.com/heavy-duty-cross-dowel-and-bolt-8-pack

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carcadoodledo t1_j29bxd4 wrote

Oh man, I hate the Ikea or other cheap versions of those, mainly due to the particle board

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MoreCoffee729 t1_j29h01w wrote

Well, these are the good ones. I assume we are all talking about real wood here, too.

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awesome357 t1_j2b4syg wrote

I'm sure those are super nice and super secure. But man, I could buy so many screws that would be plenty strong enough for the cost of that one 8 pack.

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MoreCoffee729 t1_j2b5j9s wrote

Fair enough. Different people can weigh the tradeoffs differently.

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drphillovestoparty t1_j277pdx wrote

If you want it to be really strong, I would use 4x4 posts and "let in" (notch out) each post in the long direction of the table top to use with 2x6 for your top frame. So the 2x6 will sit in a notch in the post and be flush all around the outside. Shorter length on each end you could use structural brackets or beefy screws to attach, but in reality it isn't going anywhere. Once in place, you could carriage bolt them, or use timberlock structural screws or even some number 12 or number 14's. This way the load isn't being carried by the fasteners.

Hope this makes sense.

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get-r-done-idaho t1_j2789ie wrote

Mortise your joints and glue and screw them. If you do this correctly it will be rock solid.

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PlavaZmaj t1_j285u0r wrote

Mortise and tenon, half laps, and tongue and groove or biscuit join the top pieces.

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hostile_washbowl t1_j27cv79 wrote

You doing woodworking or small engine repair? 4x4 posts of hardwood all around with carriage bolts for small engines. Be ready to shim. Or if just woodworking go with the pretty and cheap options mentioned

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Kimorin t1_j277ybc wrote

im actually building one right now... 4x7, 8 flip up casters, 8 legs, legs are laminated 2x4s with half laps for the horizontal framing... glued to the horizontal 2x4s with a couple of #8 2-1/2" construction screws for insurance... gonna do a flip up miter saw and have tablesaw mounted to it with the top being outfeed for tablesaw.

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SCUMDOG_MILLIONAIRE t1_j27mg58 wrote

Either, screws will be fine. Hardware doesn’t matter much but if you can half-lap joints then this will be plenty strong

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DavidInUSA1234 t1_j28s238 wrote

Consider using a thin 1/2 sheet of plywood for the top over what would be your top. The reasoning is as time goes on the plywood gets drilled into or cut and you can replace it easier. It can be attached with wood screws for easy removal. Hope that makes sense.

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CaptInsane OP t1_j29v8q2 wrote

Yeah thanks. I was thinking of using a piece of 3/4in plywood for the top

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caskey t1_j26xiwp wrote

Use lag screws, aka lag bolts.

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mqudsi t1_j2bg9v9 wrote

Those are just glorified beefy screws. Might as well do it right and use regular or carriage bolts.

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MongoBongoTown t1_j27v1j4 wrote

I built a fairly utilitarian work bench last year on 3 inch casters with one bottom shelf.

I used 3 inch wood screws, 2 on each face of a joint. Thing is a tank with 4x4 legs and 2x4s everywhere else.

Plenty to hold a table saw, mitre saw and anything else I regularly put there.

Only place I used lags was to secure the casters to the bottom.

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LonoRising t1_j27wk1d wrote

Shouldn’t really matter. If you engineer the bench right, none of the weight will be transferred to the screws.

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realmagpiehours t1_j27zuhw wrote

My dad did joinery, carriage bolts, and wood glue.

The legs were 8x8 cedar posts from the deck, the top was 2x4s laminated on the wide end to make an almost 4" thick top

Thing is sturdier than a fuckin solid slab of concrete and almost certainly will never fail

It's definitely way overkill tho

You'll prob be fine with deck screws

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Vikebeer t1_j28043k wrote

Built a workbench with 2X6 and 2X4's 20 years ago and I lagged the supports into the framing (angled the legs into the wall supports) and used screws for the rest. I can put engine blocks on it and have.

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PurrNaK t1_j287lzs wrote

Deck screws worked for me. No glue. Just screws. Tablesaw, chopsaw, router and from below jigsaw built into it. On wheels and gets moved back and forth all the time. Still no play in it after 4 years. I don't really beat on it much with a hammer but I have on a couple projects.

Not the right way I'm sure. But an example of good enough to hold 2x4s together.

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FireWireBestWire t1_j28v6ds wrote

Screws could be worked loose in the legs if there are even tiny imperfections in the bench. With a nut and bolt you have force pushing from both sides

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u193 t1_j29dodh wrote

A heavy duty screw that Simpson Strong-Tie makes that I've been impressed with is their SDWS timber screw line (e.g. https://www.lowes.com/pd/Simpson-Strong-Tie-Strong-Drive-174-SDWS-TIMBER-Screw-Exterior-Grade-8212-0-220-in-x-3-in-T40-50-Qty/1002703078) - they are marketed as an alternative to bolts and they allow for some pretty intense pulling power (it's hard to tell from the picture how big the head and shank are). I originally found the SDWS line when looking for screws that were officially rated as a framing screw since deck screws are not.

If you find that you need more rigidity, you could add diagonal bracing along the back and sides, though this will likely detract from the aesthetic and may be overkill for a work bench.

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BlueChooTrain t1_j29obee wrote

I used cheap deck screws on mine. It’s 10 years old and I’ve moved it to 4 houses, still sturdy as a rock. Don’t overthink it, Deck screws are cheap and they work great. The bigger thing is make sure you use plenty of 2x4s so it’s built sturdy.

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BigMikeInAustin t1_j2acxu0 wrote

I like the basic work benches that Rex Krueger makes. His focus is how to start from no or super basic tools and materials. Feel free to substitute any power tools you have. He also talks about what features you need immediately and what can be added later.

He has videos of various styles of workbenches.

https://youtube.com/@RexKrueger

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CaptInsane OP t1_j2aezph wrote

Thanks that's just the kind of tutorial I need

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BabyEagle9mm t1_j2askiu wrote

It depends on the application; if it's a homeowner workshop deck screws will be sufficient, however if it is going to see heavy loads and abuse carriage bolts. Spring for a few ¢ each on nyloc nuts (Or red Loc-Tite) and large washers so that it stays tight.

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awesome357 t1_j2b4tfv wrote

I just built a 12ft workbench for my 3d printers and other small project stuff out of 1/2" ply, 2x4 studs, and wood screws. It's super overkill for what I need but those parts were what was cheap. And I'm pretty sure it could hold my riding mower if I could get it up onto there. And that's without taking advantage of butting boards against gravity rather than letting the screws do all the lifting. Unless you need to work on a car on your bench, screws are more than enough.

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Bnb53 t1_j27g5ay wrote

So what I'm hearing is the workbench I want to build out of some solid wood closet doors needs to be thought out beyond buy some 4x4s and go at it

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Se7enLC t1_j27n4pd wrote

I like regular bolts, because you can always tighten them or replace them. The wood doesn't need to hold the fastener and doesn't wear out like it does when you use screws.

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Realworld t1_j27uf6z wrote

Built my light work tables of 2x2s and 1/4 inch plywood, assembled with predrilled 1-1/4" drywall screws. No impact or prying work done on these.

My heavy work benches are assembled from commercial steel shelving with 2x8s tops fastened with 5/16" carriage bolts, washer & nut. Vises and grinders mounted on these.

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moto4sho t1_j27uijb wrote

There’s blueprints on the web for really solid 2x4 workbenches, I’ve built several of them over the years and modified them for my needs, height, vice, power strips, etc.

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Thud2 t1_j2838ti wrote

Screws or lag bolts will eventually work loose if recurring force is applied to them. Bolts won't (and if they somehow do they can be tightened) .

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EugenioFV t1_j28sika wrote

If you want to go overkill you can also use Simpson brackets.

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kelroe26 t1_j2b2nxa wrote

TIL what a lag bolt was and what that big bolt was called. Thanks, Chief!

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