The ones I have used have a maximum thickness of 1” per pour. If the porch is sizable, that will take a whole lot of bags of self leveler but it will give you a near perfect substrate. It is a lot easier to get it level when you pour it in a higher thickness as it flows better. I would probably just do the 1” and then feather in the doorway over 4’ or so to make a smooth transition to the existing floor.

I heard she had a threesome with Fred Achini and Alfredo.

OP is just replacing a receptacle. 😉

And if you have “a couple” fans, you need 0.3A per fan on the wall wart spec.

I would suggest just buying a similar Bluetooth speaker unit and then just pull it apart and put it into your package. It becomes a huge project if you need to learn how to code Bluetooth, setup audio amps, battery management, charging circuits, etc….

ZEP makes a lot of really good stuff but you need to read the directions carefully because a lot of it leans toward “Industrial strength”.

Richard B. Toasted.

You could pretty easily do something with LED strip lites inside the headlight housing. You can buy one with “smart” features so you can control it from your phone.

Just pour in fire until the well boils.

Hard to get away from with the current setup but very easy to get rid of once you have a p trap into a tee like it should be.

S traps are specifically prohibited by international plumbing code so you are no worse off code wise and much better off real world wise with a P trap and AAV.

Unscrew it and take it to the car wash for a pressure washing.

Yep. Amazon has lots of shim stock options. You probably want to be at 0.01in (0.25mm) thick or less to make it easier to cut.

I would just wrap the outside with stainless steel wire and twist the end like a bread tie.

I assume you know what a spring form pan is? You could make your own “rings” like a spring form pan using stainless steel shim stock. The shim stock is flat and you can cut it with good scissors, then roll it up and secure it with a piece of wire or something around the outside.

Legrand also has a “Calibration” adjustment on their dimmers for the same reason.

Just repost it with the details and it won’t get removed.

No obvious reason you should be having trouble….

How about a link to the bricks you’re using?

The main thing you are missing is a picture.

You are way overthinking. This is a lag screw in wood. The screws can be removed pretty easily. Just put a screwdriver under the head and back it out. Then they just need to drill through and install carriage bolts.

OP said is saying the wood is stripped out around the lag screw, not that the screws cannot be removed…

Ledger lok or head lok or power lag type screws give you the ease of a deck screw with the strength of a lag bolt.

https://en.wiktionary.org/wiki/portret

Looks like you have filled the grout line with thinset around the tab so it cannot break off properly. You need to be mor careful with your thinset or get one of those grout scrapers with the carbide or diamond grit to grind out the remaining thinset and spacer piece.

A lot of folks jumping to the conclusion that it is a leak but I haven’t heard any definite signs it is. Do you have a water meter you can look at? If not, you can use any of the ball valves that supply your barn line to see if it has a large leak. Just barely crack the valve open. If it hisses continuously, you have a leak. If it hisses and then stops or doesn’t hiss, then you have a blockage instead of a leak. You f y or have a water meter just see how many gallons per minute the meter is racking up with everything else in the house turned off. Common causes of reduced pressure would be an extra rubber gasket, a plastic end cap, a chunk of ptfe tape, etc. knowing the material of the water line and what both ends connections look like would help to speculate further.