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stoat_toad t1_j5jla1r wrote

Why would he be talking about a firewood ra…

HOLY SHIT!!! That’s brilliant!!!

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redirdamon t1_j5jnjls wrote

"Artsy" pictures taken at weird angles suck.

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gothgaltgirl t1_j5jr4hm wrote

Looks great! I wish I had the audacity to do a project like this. I started a built in bookshelf in my first house around 12yrs ago. My husband never let me live it down. 🤣

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Gryllan OP t1_j5k1i60 wrote

Not really with the heated floors. Maybe some from the wall behind it but the air always circulates in the room. Floor heating + fan with air from upstairs coming in next to the shower - and a PAX humidity fan blowing air out

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phormix t1_j5k1xe6 wrote

This is the first time I've seen a wood fireplace (or a fireplace) in a bathroom, but actually this seems like a great idea.

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NoGoodDM t1_j5k464j wrote

Wow, most of these comments on here suck. But nice job on the bathroom remodel, OP. Looks good. Definitely a good choice.

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Adsuser t1_j5k60cu wrote

Wow amazing work! Reminds of houseflipper

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Islanduniverse t1_j5k6tia wrote

You’d have to have the water running a lot of the time to have any impact on already dried/cured firewood, even without floor heating and a fan.

How often are you running the shower?

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tweakingforjesus t1_j5k8n4o wrote

Remove the glass shower wall and this would make a great Dexter kill room.

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tjeulink t1_j5k97iw wrote

he's asking where the sewer can vent. sewer's have to move air in order to work, so since there's sewer piping there they asked where the vent for that section of sewer was.

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HvegasCowboy117 t1_j5k9d5c wrote

Looks great! That old bathroom looks like a place you'd wake up minus 1 kidney 😂

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monkey_trumpets t1_j5kcj4u wrote

Wow. Went from gross and rotten to clean and fresh. And I love the wood stove.

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AttackOfTheThumbs t1_j5kdnzf wrote

Overall, this is great. But man, those kinds of showers really suck.

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[deleted] t1_j5kdqj7 wrote

love everything except for the light decision. opted for 2-4 dimmable LED recessed lights. we got the 4" that you can even adjust color temperature. They are very cheap now!

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Gryllan OP t1_j5kf371 wrote

Yeah i know, the problem is that this is a basement, and the height is about 2 meters now. I didnt want to cut into the ceiling to install spotlights due to that the insulation there is wood chips (?) Or what you call it. And i didnt want to lower the ceiling either. I didnt put several on the walls becaus of safety either. But i know what you mean!

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239frank t1_j5kfifr wrote

Tell your gf we can still see her in the tub.

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BiFrosty t1_j5kh0ja wrote

Honestly, I think switching from a central light to one or two bar lights (think LED strip, very slim, but long like 3 ft) would help. You could adjust the color temperature, and I feel like a bat light would light the room much better than a single point light.

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NeonWarcry t1_j5kh1kp wrote

What a project, lots of things coming together really nicely. I agree with the other comment, it’s the first time I’ve seen a fireplace in a bathroom and it was a good choice plus necessary. I also think a basements a good place for a bathroom, you have the windows up high where you’d want them anyway. Hats off to you. What’s the cats name?

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AttackOfTheThumbs t1_j5khobv wrote

My sister has these showers throughout her house in Germany. I just find they create a huge mess in the bathroom and are colder overall because it's not as enclosed a space. What we found is that as you are washing yourself, water will inevitably end up on the far wall. Now the floor there is all wet and you have to squeegee it. It's just extra effort a door would have prevented. Not having the door imo has no benefits.

They've now added a rod with a curtain and forgone the open style to prevent the required clean up. And added a rim because the water will still run out. Theirs relied completely on tilt.

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Gryllan OP t1_j5kirce wrote

Yeah i had that idea! But the jungle of LEDs and transformators (?) and all made me not do it. I just did it simple. Btw, this light has 3 different lights, like dimmered yellow, strong yellow, strong white. With the highest white its really bright, and the lowest it gets cozy. So i have somewhat of what you mean. But i agree what youre saying.

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FreeThinkInk t1_j5kjh5a wrote

All that space, why did you not add a soaking tub as well?

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Gryllan OP t1_j5kjs6q wrote

Ah okey i understand. It will surely need cleaning on the far wall sometime, but we havent had any problems with that yet. About the water on the floor, I think you can see a little angled stripe on the floor outside the shower? That is for that purpose, it makes water that comes outside the drain to flow there. Sorry for my wierd english, i type as i think it in my language haha! We did talk about installing a door aswell, but not in 90° from the showerwall, but 180° towards the fan and window.

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gothgaltgirl t1_j5kknuv wrote

My husband and I have been together for 17yrs 3 kids - 12, 4, 5months We’ll be married 4 yrs sometime in September. We didn’t want to get married. We had gotten into church for a short time and because we were volunteering to run their audio/visuals booth they forced us to get married. We no longer go to that money hungry church - not even sure if we believe - but we’re still married 😂

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mschuster91 t1_j5kmg3l wrote

Please, get a carbon monoxide alarm. CO sinks to the lowest place in a house, which in your case is the basement.

CO doesn't smell and you often don't notice what is going on before it is way too late.

And never operate the fan at the same time the oven is running, the fan will suck the smoke into the bathroom.

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Gryllan OP t1_j5knq8j wrote

Gotcha. A collegue also suggested this, but for our fireplace next to the bedroom. The fan will suck smoke? The smoke goes out the chimney, the fans i have are - one blowing in air from living room above - and one blowing out outdoors

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stng17 t1_j5kopah wrote

Great work! Do you have any concern with moisture problems and the ceiling? The ceiling looks like it's literally the hardwood floor above it.

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vivamario t1_j5kp9qe wrote

Why would that matter? Anything rated for use in damp locations is going to be rated for insulation as well. Other than the logistics of not making a mess, there isn't going to be heat buildup.

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Gryllan OP t1_j5kpz44 wrote

House built in 1944, that ceiling is the original one. Always been a shower here, and theres no dmg at all. Above this ceiling is woodchips (?) Insulation and then the same floor as ceiling above. But i reno'd all the floors on the upper floor becaus we had a daughter, so that she could crawl around without getting splinters x)

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Gryllan OP t1_j5kqgpm wrote

I found many spotlights that were rated for bathrooms but needed alot of space, LEDs. Ive renod many bathrooms as a worker aswell and some needs cups. Thats why i didnt want to build them into this ceiling. But i think you are right, there prob are some that can handle wooden chips laying on them. Sounds scary tho

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QW1Q t1_j5ks3u6 wrote

Yeah, he’s saying don’t run the bathroom exhaust fan while you have a fire burning. The reason is that the chimney is just exhausting air via convection, and if you turn the exhaust fan on, it will suck the smoke into your living space instead of allowing it to go out the chimney. Tbh though, real world, if the chimney isn’t flowing, you’ll notice all the smoke and smoke smell in the room.

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stng17 t1_j5ks6ey wrote

Good point on the previous shower existing. My old home was built 1900 and you could literally see through the floor gaps haha. Sounds like you'll be in great shape. Thanks for taking the time to document and share!

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Gryllan OP t1_j5kt5o2 wrote

Aah, that the fan sucks so much air that it sucks it out of the chimney. But no, the airflow up the chimney when its burning is much more than this pax-fan. Thats no problem. Yeah, if a bird ever nests in there, ill notice it pretty quick haha

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Dogthatpulls t1_j5ktelh wrote

How did this cost you OP? I want to do a makeover myself

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Gryllan OP t1_j5ktm16 wrote

Haha yeah!? If it was a prob i would break open it from above and insulate it. Ive thought about doing that just to keep the colder climate in the basement, in the basement. The floors above can be cold at times. Thank you! I have so much to share, ive been building here for 5 years now, would be fun to make a video maybe. Really appreciate you guys commenting. Thanks again!

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mschuster91 t1_j5ktq3a wrote

You need one CO alarm for each room with a combustion-based heater.

As for the fans: the one blowing in air is no problem at all, but the one blowing towards outdoors is. Even if it doesn't draw in visible smoke from the oven, it still may draw in CO.

Don't mess with CO. It's incredibly deadly and it is a regular occurrence that people die because something broke somewhere.

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dub_side t1_j5kwc9n wrote

Project manager isn't satisfied

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I-Camel t1_j5kwg2a wrote

There’s a myth that carbon monoxide alarms should be installed lower on the wall because carbon monoxide is heavier than air. In fact, carbon monoxide is slightly lighter than air and diffuses evenly throughout the room.

According to the carbon monoxide guidelines of the National Fire Protection Association (NFPA 720, 2005 edition), all carbon monoxide alarms “shall be centrally located outside of each separate sleeping area in the immediate vicinity of the bedrooms,” and each alarm “shall be located on the wall, ceiling or other location as specified in the installation instructions that accompany the unit.”

Why CO alarms are often installed near the floor:

Standalone carbon monoxide alarms are often placed low on the wall because they need to be plugged into an outlet that’s near the floor. CO alarms can also have a screen that shows the CO level and needs to be at a height where it’s easy to read.

https://support.google.com/googlenest/answer/9259392?hl=en

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cld1984 t1_j5kz9dy wrote

I’m sorry to say it, but your friend on the left has already planned you and your brother’s murder

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mrbawkbegawks t1_j5l0gau wrote

i hope you kept or sold those glass blocks. ive been trying to find some not at full price for a while now!

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no1name t1_j5l30sn wrote

Do you have concrete board on a base material. I never knew you could do that. I would have thought you would have to lay some concrete or a floor first.

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Gryllan OP t1_j5l3kun wrote

It was kind of a test. Layered from bottom - Sand and stones - styrofoam - plastic sheet - boards - concrete. The leveling concrete also flowed into edges and stuff so it filled every pocket.

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Gryllan OP t1_j5l4b52 wrote

The concrete board is very light, doesnt weigh much at all. It like coated with concrete on each side, with kinda like glassfiber net, and some sort of styro inside of it. Pretty hard.

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AttackOfTheThumbs t1_j5l4hkf wrote

No, I see that. Most of the water was really the splashing the left the shower more than just running out. The barrier was just another thing to help prevent it further. For all I know, theirs are just extra shit. I dunno. Modern design just isn't for me.

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ismyusername t1_j5l6szy wrote

Brave choice not adding a curb to the shower

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donkeyrocket t1_j5lc7h9 wrote

Definitely an often mentioned thing. The concern with CO is that it disperses evenly everywhere. So it doesn't really sink or rise just mixes.

Always grew up hearing that the detectors need to be low along the wall when it is actually recommended to be mid-wall or slightly below eye level. They'll really be effective placed anywhere in a room.

Not sure why it is perpetuated. I imagine the fact that outlets are lower to the floor and typically where a plug-in style would go reinforces this belief.

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sophiebophieboo t1_j5ldckh wrote

I got battery powered CO detectors so I could put them at eye level without running wires down walls. I guessed that maybe they were supposed to be at eye level because CO hovered at a certain level based on relative humidity in the room but it’s probably just that it’s where people are likely to breathe it in, yeah?… if it all just mixes.

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Vesalii t1_j5lgre7 wrote

I would have done concrete under the floor before insulation. Even if it wasn't in a basement. Also, bit of a shame to drill in those new times to hang the shelf imo. Other than that, nice work!

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SANPres09 t1_j5li1o9 wrote

Nice job! Did you pour any additional concrete or is the insulation and then leveling concrete on top of that? If the dirt move, would that crack your floor?

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Snoodini t1_j5lmnmr wrote

Sweden, right? I wonder why you didn't use a waterproofing system before tiling?

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Torance39 t1_j5lsdq8 wrote

To drain correctly it needs a vent within a limited distance from the drain (4'-6' depending upon drain size and slope). I'm also concerned since I can't see a p-trap at the shower drain. It will be likely to smell.

But, really nice job on redoing the concrete and sloping the drain area well. And I love the new look.

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joekerr37 t1_j5lt7wo wrote

that fifth picture looks like an album cover for a 1990's grunge band.

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SkarmacAttack t1_j5lvi21 wrote

Before I read the comments, lemme guess, Finland?

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pepapi t1_j5m1607 wrote

The Jackoboards are waterproof only after the joints have been tended to, unfortunately.

The JACKOBOARD® Plano Construction boards provide a completely waterproof substrate for tiling that will not allow moisture to penetrate into the fabric of the building. Tiling can begin as soon as the joints between boards are sealed with waterproof tape and cement-based single part flexible tile adhesive.

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th30be t1_j5mdwpl wrote

The first pic had some serious serial killer vibes. Now it's more Hannibal lecter.

Jokes aside, that's cool man. Looks good.

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Anonymous37 t1_j5mj64g wrote

You should have seen the toilet, sink, and bathtub.

They were avocado.

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Carbo__ t1_j5mpeov wrote

Shame any comments on the actual build are this low down. Again, not doing this to shit on OP but just for everyone's general knowledge before they do something similar.

While OP says it was a "test", I can almost guarantee this is going to fail (how soon? who knows) due to a few glaring errors (and to your question, you should indeed have concrete as your base and then insulate, not vice-versa. Ditto on the concrete board).

Foam on sand - not rigid or dimensionally stable is likely to be the first cause of death as things settle. If not that, then likely due to the whole thing lacking any waterproofing. Water will permeate the grout/tile (expected in all showers), but without any waterproofing, it will then soak into the concrete, which will saturate, and then saturate into concrete board (And thus will be trapped by the plastic) and then ultimately fail.

Again, not really so much of a question of "if" but a question of when. With minimal use it could be a long ways off. But I'd bet the foam on sand base will be the issue first.

And bonus sketchy points for in floor heating in the shower without waterproofing and the above mentioned water sponge created with the plastic. Should actually be a risk as long as floor is dimensionally stable and cable doesnt get stressed due to failures/shifting...(see above)

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Carbo__ t1_j5mq9jv wrote

I mean, no waterproofing is going to be just as bad as laying concrete on top of.... *checks notes.....concrete board that's on top of foam and sand.

Part of me wants to post this to r/tile.... they'd have a field day.

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brakeled t1_j5mq9n5 wrote

Should have led with the cat pic.

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jhld t1_j5mw2sd wrote

Why does everyone these days want their bathroom to look like a soul-less hotel bathroom?

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AnaBanona t1_j5n8mxi wrote

As a cleaner, I hate glass shower doors so much lol.

Despite my hatred for large glass doors your new bathroom is gorgeous. Beautiful work.

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Gryllan OP t1_j5n8uho wrote

Under the insulation. Well, for what rly? And then another layer conceling the floor heating? Well, you gonna have to drill. Clothes hanger, showerwall, shelves etc.

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Gryllan OP t1_j5n947o wrote

We packed the ground - insulaton - plastic - boards - floor heating - leveling concrete. The leveling concrete slab flows down into cracks and edges and fills most up. Yeah if a underground mega earthworm comes im in trouble x)

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fourpuns t1_j5n94ji wrote

I’m sure it’s safe but the idea of an electric heated floor in my shower just makes me think I’m getting Zapped.

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Gryllan OP t1_j5n9ido wrote

You cant use a waterproofing system on concrete walls in a basement. The walls needs to be able to breath. We tested this in this exact bathroom like 8 years ago. We used the kiilto rubber in the shower and on the wall. But the concrete gets a little damp sometimes so the rubber comes off. Its a different story building in a basement than a new drywall - box

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Gryllan OP t1_j5na5um wrote

I dont think you know how this works. As i said earlier, you cant rubberize a somewhat damp basement with concrete walls. Concrete needs to breath, especially in basements. And to be real, why do you see a need for a waterproof system in a basement with concrete everywhere? Really no point.

The ground is solid. Thats always a first step, even if you build a parking garage. The 2 layer foams, with boards on top, which are pretty sturdy if youve never worked with one, is kinda tough. And 12mm slab ontop which also filled gaps and what not. Dont be that guy, it holds up my bathtub with no problem, and my daughter jumps and plays without a crack.

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Gryllan OP t1_j5nao98 wrote

XD the "p-trap", is that a water lock? That is in the drain, under that big lid. Which country are you from? Ive never seen a air vent so close to every drain ever in sweden. We may have 1 or 2 air-vents/backflow thingies in a whole house.

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Gryllan OP t1_j5nbtf8 wrote

To be able to put floor heating on it, + it has an insulation property. You cant put floor heating on styrofoam, so you need a layer of something else. And these boards are stuff and sturdy and are approved for floor heating, theyre perfect

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Gryllan OP t1_j5nu377 wrote

Thick enough? Concrete is not hydrophopic. It gets wet and soaks water mate.

Easier to work on a concrete slab than? A packed sand/stone floor? Just a waste of money pouring 2 concrete slabs imo. Theres no problem packing and leveling without concrete

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Vesalii t1_j5nzut6 wrote

Concrete that's thick enough does not let water through. A concrete slab is the default first layer over here:

Flooring (tiles in this case) Screed Insulation Concrete Plastic

The plastic is around 100 um thick and is only so water from the concrete doesn't go into the earth. To make sure the concrete cures correctly.

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Gryllan OP t1_j5o1q3e wrote

Thick enough? You mean i should have 2meters of concrete? It doesnt seem like you are in construction mate. Yes, concrete does absorb water. The reason behind this is that concrete is a highly porous material that is made up of gravel, sand, cement and water. The final product appears hard but is full of pores.

Concrete burns even if it starts raining on it. Pouring. You often water a new slab to make it not cure too fast, in that case it will crack.

A packet soil ground is always the first start,under the concrete, and when you can level that you can skip the bottom concrete, (since it has no use at all). That way i save money, work, and height in this low-ceiling bathroom.

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Betyoazz t1_j619ybu wrote

Nice work! I especially love the heated floor. A+++++++

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